Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im not sure. The only thing he said was something about the ECU going back to the battery and not the alternator. The only problem i have is if i winge too much he could easily change a few figures in the ecu and either detune it, or make it a time bomb waiting to happen. I think this time as times in the past when i have been burnt by workshops is to just pay it and never go there again.

Here is the dyno sheets that $1000 of tuning got me.

And it's only running 12psi. They said they pushed the boost up but it didn't make much more power. Does this sound like B/S? The engine has forgies in it and the turbo is bigger than stock with a steel wheel. I have pushed it to 16 psi and it felt like it had much more power than 12psi. And i dont know where they pulled the 168.9kw run out off. it was making 200kw when i got there... The usuall tricks to make the figures look better. So please people that see dyno sheets all the time please tell me what you think about these.

best to list the parts you've got in there and what tune you're running on.

It's one of those things where I think the workshop will be able to justify the bill because of the amount of time spent on your car. But that's why the advice has been to take it to another workshop, because these guys may lack the experience. It could be that they took 5 hours to find a problem that would take another workshop 1 hour. So best to part ways me thinks.

Yea i will NEVER EVER go back to these muppets. I do understand that time is money and yea they could justify there time and the cost. The thing that has pissed me off the most is there was no communication!!! They kept telling me that they will look after me and that it wont cost much at all.

The mods are FMIC, electronic boost controller, turbo has been rebuilt and made bigger and a steel wheel. I think it's rated at 450hp now. bigger fuel pump, haltech interceptor. engine rebuilt with forgies.

Well i paid the bill and picked up the car. So pissed off at the company. But i have to admit the car does run well. Not $2200 worth but it is good. And i found out that dyno time was charged at around $235 and hour

So $235 per hr and they couldnt even find that it had a bad earth proplem???

Do any of you boy's/girl's get pre dyno check's done before your tune???

We do battery, power to coil, power to fuel pump and fuel flow/pressure check's before every run and add it into the bill.

Best to sort these issue's out before you waste 20-30min's to strap it down and end up with no result.

Bet there isnt a person on this site who would not have wasted days trying to find that problem. How many people who have a car that suddenly drops 150kw have a first thorght of "I wonder if the the battery terminal did it"???? The guy probably didnt charge you for half the time he wasted on it trying to diagnose someones else's substandard work. Dont forget that you now have a car that is running sweet and has had everthing on it checked and double checked. Regardless of wether you planned to spent that money or not its not wasted!! Another point to remember is if you change workshops now there is a real good chance that the first time you have a problem your NEW!! workshop will be charging you AGAIN!! to check things that you just paid this guy to do. He on the other hand will be know your car very well. No I do not have a workshop and dont know the car or the workshop from this thread. Just my two cents on a subject where it seems that most of the advise given to you is based on other people knowing everthing and your mechanic supposedly knowing nothing. Niether of these two things are true so try not to judge too unfairly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would like more noise related info for my truly uneducated guess  Does it do it at idle or when revving, clutch engaged, and disengaged? Does it only do it when the car is moving? I've heard "similar" noises from a clutch pack that left the chat room, and CV joints that have chewed themselves out But as Matt said, how's the yokes, tailshaft and centre bearing going after their last little issue Fingers crossed it is something simple  Weird noises make me cringe 
    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
    • The nature of my commute has changed. Way back then it was traffic lights all the way, for ~28km. It sucked. When they finally stitched the expressway together I could do a good 15+km of it at a steady 80-100 with no stopping. That alone has gotten me down to flat 10s. Prior to that it was mid-high 10s. I can't remember the delta that I saw when I got the idle down. It was only ~150 rpm, because the idle speed was never terrible, but for the delta in consumption to be noticeable it would have had to have been at least 0.2-0.3 L/100km - which is not to be sneezed at when it comes for absolute free. It's only about 50L per year, but that's ~$100. A few extra pizzas is always welcome. Note that I have a record of every tank of fuel that has ever gone through my car except for a handful put in by someone else, like my mechanic. I can show you the difference between stock RB20 and tuned RB20, stock RB5Neo and tuned, winter and summer fuel blends, winter and summer fuel blends when the ambient temperature is not appropriate for the blend, working O2 sensor, blown O2 sensor, boosting f**k out of it and frightened to boost it because it is pinging, and so on. OK, I probably can't do all that now with 100% clarity - but at the time when any of those things were in event, you could see it in the records. There's 25+ years of simple tank after tank records, so you have to look for landmarks to work out approximately how old any single record is. What's really important is the meta data and that lives in my head.
    • If you're claiming the issues are not skyline specific, then either the USA is living in the 90s / early 2000s, OR you have the issue of "survivor bias". Which is you're mainly hearing and listening to those with terrible experiences, and haven't found the guys who have cars with good decent builds and no problems. It happens in AU too, that plenty of people keep having issues, and they keep going to the workshops that are known to be shit "because I read on the internet". Even worse, are those who keep posting on the internet as though they know for a fact what something is, when they've never touched/looked at said item in their life, and again are making assumptions, based on something they read, or because it's a certain way in other cars. It's even funnier when those same people debate the facts with the people who've lived and breathed this stuff for over 15 years. Example, I've had someone tell me you can't do something with a Skyline, because they read it on the internet, except I can tell they're wrong, as I did that exact thing back in 2008 with my Skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...