Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Help Help 48kw


shotter
 Share

Recommended Posts

Are you running a timing cover?

you ran it with the timing cover off didnt you, and you didnt put washers to space the CAS (cam angle sensor) out thats why you have broken the tab on the cam which positions it in the right spot and timing, what it also dose is stuffs up the CAS because it hits in the cam gear bolts, the only way to fix is replace this is a common thing ppl thinks it kool to see ya cam gears and belt going around lol this will learn ya. and if ya tunner did it he should have knowin better and maybe he or she shouldnt be touching ya skyline.

sometimes ya can give the CAS a tap and it will come bak for a little. but with that tab on the cam missing things can get messy because if the CAS slipps a toth at full noise there goes ya engine.

Edited by Travis Trayhern
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

We didn't run it with the timing cover off. But we did notice the first time we pulled the cover off and the CAS out is that it had snapped the tabs, only 1 was still stuck in the CAS. and that it had rubbed on the cam bolts. Then we put the cover back on and the CAS back on. And we could still hear the rubbing sound with the timing cover on. And what would need to be replaced? Both the CAS and cam? And the other weird thing i noticed is the CAS has a mitsubishi symbol on the front of it. Is this normal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cas will be in the right spot. There is no need to replace anything, just need to take more time when installing the cas. I call bulls@#t to the theory that the cas drive wears allowing the timing to jump around, and the pin certainly doesn't do anything once the splines are engaged. There is no way this can blow your motor. All early rb's have a mitsubishi cas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

drop the exhaust off from the turbo housing and give it a run on the dyno.

but first see if the rear wheel of the turbo is still intact and not in the cat converter

if it makes the power then check the cat to see if its shagged - could be a major restriction there,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well borrow a CAS because thats your problem, because when it rubs on the cam gear bolts it also puts preasure on the internals of it, as previous post said with the cam lob gone it just makes it really hard to line up but it look like its done the damage to it already, if you do put another one on make sure it is spaced out and shouldnt hit there is a rubber that goes inbetween the timing cover it also had small washers in it to space it out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im wondering if it is the ECU that is causing the problems. I would love to get a powerFC but they sell so quickly. IM thinking i might check the CAT and also the compression on each cylinder...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't believe that the workshop hasn't found the problem yet?

- Pressurize your entire intake system and see if there is a leak.

- Check the cat

- Check the AFRs again

- Check there is enough fuel flow, not just pressure

- Do a compression test - You might have blown the engine

There are more options but do the basics.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok had a talk to the workshop my cars in and they hooked up a haltech e11 with a base map and it still had the same problem. He doesn't think it could be the cat, pistons or cams bacause if it was it would run badly at idle. So now im back to the situation of not knowing what the hell is wrong with my car...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok had a talk to the workshop my cars in and they hooked up a haltech e11 with a base map and it still had the same problem. He doesn't think it could be the cat, pistons or cams bacause if it was it would run badly at idle. So now im back to the situation of not knowing what the hell is wrong with my car...

Mate, I did a ring landing, and valve, and the ONLY thing you could tell from it when it first let go, was that it had a SLIGHT miss to it at idle. That's it.

Cat blocked, she'll still run fine.

As to the cam timing, you can unplug it and it'll be fine. It only moves the cam a few degrees. Rule it out.

Drop the exhaust, and run it on the dyno, is power back? No? Leave it off...

Compression test motor, is comp down? No, move on.

Pressure test whole inlet, is there a leak? No, Move on.

Checked the cams? Haven't snapped one? Cars have seen to run but make no power with snapped cams before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trailer the car to a new workshop me thinks. If you have internal damage all this stuffing around with the ECU changes is just making it worse as each time he is having to run the engine again. You said the workshop said he doesn't think it would be the cat but has he bothered to check it yet? Maybe exhaust is crushed, maybe inlet pipes are sucking closed, maybe he left the brakes/handbrake on, Maybe his Dyno is broken?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea im thinking of taking the day off on wednesday and just saying, give me your tools and a hoist and i will check this stuff out. So other than the stuff MBS206 has said. Can any one give me more stuff to check and i will just print out a list and tick each one off on wednesday. And i really hope the cam isn't snapped.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dose it ide ok? seriously if it ides ok there should be anything like cam snaped or rings busted with out a miss fire or blue smoke pooring out the back lol my money is still on the CAS dude can you borrow one the try out? and whats going on when u just free rev it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

has it got a gates timing belt on it?

it will be a bluey black colour.

thats probally your rubbing noise from the front of the engine.

dead fuel pump?

check all 3 cam timing marks?

do a compression test and replace your plugs if they look shitty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • we can only guess exactly what happened from our keyboards, but to me it looks like they were targeting 27 but the wastegate was too small or poorly controlled and the boost crept up, that is quite common
    • Good points!  Took those for granted - though I *did* actually give an example of winding boost up more than it had been before where I wasn't actually specifically looking for more peak power.  The Toyota Starlet dyno plot that I shared and mentioned showed an overlay from the previous tune it had and the one I'd redone, I left the boost targetting the same as the old tune but then after peak power I ramped boost up by a good 5psi or so over what the old tune had at the same rpm. The reason I felt comfortable with this (though the owner of the car had a "are you sure?" moment when I suggested it) is that the setup wasn't turbo limited, it was largely head sealing limited and the owner was a bit concerned as for the last few seasons he'd had issues with head lifting - sometimes not completing an event without having some headgasket issue, so he didn't want to run any more boost than it was. The reasons I was ok with raising the boost a good 5+psi MORE than that was that I left it where it was in the middle, and only increased it where VE (and therefore cylinder pressure vs psi) were dropping hard and I didn't stop the torque from dropping, just reduced the drop.  Well, there is that and the fact that the previous tuner had it overtimed by near 7degrees at peak torque - but that's another story haha.    I didn't really go into detail about that "turning it up more" thing but now you've mentioned the "not detuning", sometimes the boost *can* be turned up higher than you'd expect if the setup allows for it and you do it smartly.  I've tuned things to run 30psi on BP98 "safely" that a few years ago (or still?) people would cry that it was a stupid idea - but given they were well intercooled, low EMAP turbos and only doing that kind of boost where VE is dropping etc I was pretty confident it wasn't as cowboy as it sounded at face value and we never ended up with issues as a result of it.     
    • they choose the number of psi (27) around 4200? Could it produce more at this engine speed with the same turbo?
    • one thing escapes me, if the turbo spool provides the maximum boost and we can't control anything before that, how can the boost be higher by it alone.   here around 27 psi at 4200 then up to 32 psi at 6500 rpm   how does the tuner do this
    • I'm still not sure what you are trying to acheive, but I wanted to clarify something about Lithium's response to your question...   Only within certain limits. All of the examples Lithium gave were of detuning for a particular reason. Before the engine/turbo/wastegate combination has hit full boost, you can't increase it....the wastegate is shut and the turbo is pushing as hard as it can Once the combination has hit the target (controlled) boost, you generally have full control over whether it makes more or less boost, because it is being limited/reduced from its potential. This is generally done by controlling the wastegate In the top end, with an undersized turbo, it is possible you won't get to your target boost anymore if the turbo is choking up. In this case you cannot increase boost any more without changing the setup. No change in cost compared to any decent build, other than tuning time to get the engine to make less power than it is able to at a certain point
×
×
  • Create New...