Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time has come to sell.

Car:

  • 1994 Black R33 GTS25 Type-S
  • Manual 5 speed

History:

  • In 2004 by Special Vehicle Imports (QLD) with 50,000km. In the time I've owned it I have traveled approximately 10,000km per year. It has just clicked over 100,000 km and has had the timing belt and water pump replaced. It was serviced by Chapman and Chapmans every 10,000km and I change the oil, oil filter and inspect the spark plugs myself every 5,000 km in between.

Wheel/Suspension/Brakes:

  • Nismo LMGT4 forged monoblock rims 17x8.5 with Federal 595RS tyres (95% tread)
  • Whiteline springs with modified circlip height adjustable Bilstein shocks (Sydneykid spec)
  • Whiteline fixed front and adjustable rear swaybars
  • Whiteline adjustable front and rear camber bushes
  • Whiteline adjustable front castor bushes
  • Whiteline pineapples
  • Nismo front strut brace with master cylinder stopper
  • R33 GTR rear strut brace
  • Locked hicas
  • R32 DBA slotted rotors and calipers (rebuilt) front with Hawk ultimate brake pads
  • R32 stock rotors and calipers rear (rebuilt) with Hawk ultimate brake pads
  • ADR approved front and rear braided brake lines with Motul RBF600 fluid

Drivetrain:

  • R33 GTR clutch

Power:

  • Coby extractors with HPC (heat proof coating), 2.5" high flow metal cat and a standard R33 GTR exhaust
  • Apexi SAFC-II (Black version) tuned by Matt Spry

Cosmetics:

  • R34 GTR bucket seats
  • Stealth rear wing
  • Nismo tinted side indicators
  • Tinted windows

Extras:

  • CD Headunit
  • Pioneer 6.5" front speakers and Pioneer 6x9" rear speakers in a custom MDF shelf
  • Australian approved 3+1 immobilisation point $1000 aftermarket alarm system (installed by Chris Rogers, will disclose if buyer is serious)

That's most of what I can remember at this stage, they are the main mods and probably a few more little ones that I have forgotten.

As you can see it's quite a reasonably modded R33 GTS and is perfect for someone (especially P-Platers) who are keen on getting serious with the car in the future. I also have a set of Sparco Racing rims 17x8 if interested for a reduced cost. It currently has the Type-M front bar, however the stock one can be put back on. Also have Type-M side skirts and rear pods (white) which can be included if required.

Price wise, I will let it go for $14-15,000 right now. However I am aware of the current market and am flexible on pricing. I have retained a majority of the car's standard parts and will let it go for significantly lower price with a stock setup without all the good bits (ball park $8000).

Not separating for parts at this stage, but will separate to sell the car.

Contact: 0403112979 or PM (Eugene)

post-9983-1239230406_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230432_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230467_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230497_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230518_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230535_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230554_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230573_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230606_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230621_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230636_thumb.jpg

post-9983-1239230649_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250871-1994-r33-gts25-type-s-non-turbo/
Share on other sites

thanks for the comments and free bump.

it certainly is a good package for someone new to performance cars and cars in general to start out. remember the package can be customised to suit budget!

  • 1 month later...
any figures on how much power was gained from the safc? i have been thinking about getting one but wasnt sure if it was worth it.
$7000 grand cash thats all i can afford and yuu have a deal i will ring yuu up and find were yur located if $7000 sounds k reply Edited by wrxstippp
$7000 grand cash thats all i can afford and yuu have a deal i will ring yuu up and find were yur located if $7000 sounds k reply

Why did you quote me?

any figures on how much power was gained from the safc? i have been thinking about getting one but wasnt sure if it was worth it.

gained about 5-10kW, wasn't a power tune though. basically to clean up air fuel ratios

$7000 grand cash thats all i can afford and yuu have a deal i will ring yuu up and find were yur located if $7000 sounds k reply

If you want it stock I might consider it, otherwise you're about $7-8K short mate.

considering i asked for a ball park $8K for a stock setup i think you will pretty much get that. if you are serious and really have the cash to go then give me a call and we can work something out - i may throw in the brakes and sparcos.

stock suspension, stock seats, basic sound system, take the safc out, stock swaybars, no strut braces, stock extractors, etc.

  • 3 weeks later...
if you don't sell it with the 34GTR seats i have first dibs on them :/

hahaha... everyone has asked me about them!

car will get a once over in the coming weeks. a service as well as getting the rear pods and side skirts fitted and painted.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...