Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do you have the bigger Nismo slave cylinder?

You dont need to use a Nismo slave cylinder.

I just whacked on a Nismo Super Coppermix Twin on my car and so far it's been a very positive upgrade. I'm surprised at how easy it is to control. I thought it would be more like a button type clutch which I've used before and gave me the shits in traffic. It grabs / bites harder than the stock clutch but still feels easy to handle. And you can definitely launch better and quicker than stock unit. I dig the rattling sound, it makes the car feel more raw and tough!

Edited by mxfly

I'll answer your questions.

Thanks for your reply. I do have some follow up questions:

1) How long have you had the NISMO twin plate clutch for? I ask this because I am wondering approx. how long this particular clutch lasts? (Obviously depending on driving..) A clutch can last you years, just depending on how hard to use it.

2) Did you have to replace anything else when you swapped over to the nismo clutch? ie - thrust bearings, pivot forks etc??? New thrust bearing is provided with the kit.

3) So your nismo clutch does allow a little bit of slip? ie - not like your either on or off? There's slip so it's easier to ride it. But there's also enough bite as well.

4) Is the pedal feeling a lot heavier than stock? Does feels heavier than stock but it's not that bad.

5) If you were to sum it up, would you say that the nismo twin plate is easy to drive? 1000%!

6) Finally would you recomend getting the NISMO big operating slave cylinder? Using a Nismo cylinder would make it feel like stock. In fact it feels lighter than stock when i tried it out on another car.

  • 4 months later...

Hi guys, I'm about to fork out and upgrade my clutch. I'm leaning towards the Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate kit (640ps), however I've been advised by some that there have been reliabilty issues in them slipping at lower power levels? Can anyone comment?

Also, Sliding Performance stock these:

ORC Single Plate clutch kit ORC 409D-01N (400ps) (Includes flywheel), $1489

, which are a single plate option (assuming also for GTR application) including light weight flywheel and are half the cost of a twin plate kit. Has anybody had experience with these ORC single plate kits (or any other) single plate clutch kits on an R34 GTR? Pro's and con's?

I'll be running approx. 360hp @ the wheels.

Cheers,

Ed

  • 5 months later...

Hi Guys

Im using the HKS Twins on a 34GTT, in traffic you need patience to understand it's ON/OFF habit. Don't let anyone drive it if they are not familiar with it, but one thing makes me wanna keep it is the launch effect and every gear change bite i get on every gear. Im on my second set now, thought of changing to the ORC or Exedy Hyper Single because the traffic situation is getting unbearable. Nismo Coppermix is pricey so that option is out. My target is 400-450hp clutch set that can drive easily for me (or my other half). Which one would you guys recommend?

Mate, I've got an R34 GTR as well and I recently replaced my clutch with a Jim Berry Full Monty Item. Cost about $1700 - 1800 delivered and he said it can hold upto 700hp. My car just got a pair of -5's but hasn't been tuned yet so I can't tell you how it handles a reasonable bit of power. I too am after 300-350awkw and I explained this to Jim at the time and he assured me that this clutch will handle those numbers without a problem. Also advised me that they're quite cheap to rebuild, he can rebuild one of his own clutches for $400-500. The car is my daily driver and the clutch is very driveable, worth a thought instead of the jap brands anyway mate...

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it,  and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real
    • Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.
    • No clips on this one like the other connector. Only that red tab that I can push slightly up.
    • For any loom connector that has an obvious release that resists pushing far enough to unclip, just spray some silicone lube into it. You might also benefit from using a bent screwdriver or small pick to push in the right place at the right angle.
    • Hey all, I went to try and fix my indicator not canceling, but I couldn't remove the clockspring cable under the column so I could twist that green thin. Anyone know how to remove this cable? I see this red tab but didn't have any luck. I was thinking of unscrewing it but wasn't sure if it would cause issues. I did notice for my indicator stalk, 2 out of 3 cables were plugged in but the last cable wouldn't fit in the stalk. I'm getting it's for fog lights. It was like this when I originally pulled it off.  
×
×
  • Create New...