Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stagea's and ruts dont mix . anyone else looked under the back of a RS four S and noticed the hicas motor points straight down and is about 4 inches lower than the diff . stupid really . really stupid when you look at a skyline one and all the motor and stuff points backwards from the rack and does not affect ground clearance at all . yeah i took it up a 4wd track to get to lock katrine . the track is not very bad at all . no mud or big rocks just quite undulating and fine if you drive on the high spots . i only managed to scrape the muffler once . nothing else hit the ground but yeah the hicas got the electric motor ripped off it and the rack bent backwards till it hit the fuel tank and the wheels did what they wanted . kicked it forward and tied it to the diff mounts with some fence wire and managed to get home .

have found a perfectly good series 2 hicas rack for 50 bucksk so ill slap that in and if it doesnt work it will be turned into a lock bar with the aid of some washers

whats the go with the electronics behind the hicas when people have fitted a lock bar ? other than removing the light on the dash . like pull out the fuses and relays or leave them ?

get some pics up later when i pull it all apart

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250919-hicas-light-comes-on/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting. Some of them were tight to lol
    • That's right, simple but works. Run out of load? Rescale the table lol. Want to be lazy and not rescale? Drag the K
    • @DraftySquash @Duncan he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car. anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70 if you take notice it’s the same shape.  well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says : - Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000) this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar. im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar       
    • Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
×
×
  • Create New...