Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey there,

im looking to getting my r33 gtr engine forged, just the basic package, pistons, jun pump, cams, crank attention etc, running 2860-5, and usual upgrades.....

what would the average person out there who has the similar package set there rev limit too?

im sure my mechanic will set it too what he thinks, but just keen to here some numbers

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/
Share on other sites

Ill jump in here early.

Just for arguments sake i have a GT Block, Tomei 2.8 stroker 270 degree procams and GT RS turbo's and I dont rev it any harder then 8000 RPM (with the cutout set at 8500 RPM just so i dont hit it all the time)

After you get it tuned look at where it makes its power. I cant see any need why you would need to rev it any higher then 8000.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4345393
Share on other sites

Ill jump in here early.

Just for arguments sake i have a GT Block, Tomei 2.8 stroker 270 degree procams and GT RS turbo's and I dont rev it any harder then 8000 RPM (with the cutout set at 8500 RPM just so i dont hit it all the time)

After you get it tuned look at where it makes its power. I cant see any need why you would need to rev it any higher then 8000.

hey thanks for that,

just watching that mines (34 vs. supra) for the millionith time, and dam that gtr still seems to go crazy to about 9k

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4345539
Share on other sites

If you are not changing the rods or at least the weak factory rod bolts...leave the rev limit at the factory level. It's there because Nissan calculated it to be that. If you strengthen the rods or rod bolts then maybe add a further 500rpm but realistically it depends on how long you want it to last. Any RB revving over 8000 for long periods every day is going to be short lived....unless you pour a small fortune into development.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4345550
Share on other sites

IMO revs are the second worst thing for a motor, well probably third behind poor tuning and poor engine building. Work out your piston speed and go from there. 8000 is all i would rev a street RB26 to, of course some people will rev more but 8000 will see you enough fines!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4345929
Share on other sites

If you are not changing the rods or at least the weak factory rod bolts...leave the rev limit at the factory level. It's there because Nissan calculated it to be that. If you strengthen the rods or rod bolts then maybe add a further 500rpm but realistically it depends on how long you want it to last. Any RB revving over 8000 for long periods every day is going to be short lived....unless you pour a small fortune into development.

hey def doing rod bolts too.....

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4346227
Share on other sites

If you are not changing the rods or at least the weak factory rod bolts...leave the rev limit at the factory level. It's there because Nissan calculated it to be that. If you strengthen the rods or rod bolts then maybe add a further 500rpm but realistically it depends on how long you want it to last. Any RB revving over 8000 for long periods every day is going to be short lived....unless you pour a small fortune into development.

please explain what a small forutune is, i plan to rev mine to 9000rpm, and i have gone to a fairly full house extent....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4346765
Share on other sites

please explain what a small forutune is, i plan to rev mine to 9000rpm, and i have gone to a fairly full house extent....

fairly full house ?

or

full house?

I'd say part of the way there is;

* Jun/Trust oil pump + long snout crank + decent balancer

* crank girdle and head stud upgrade

* Oil gallery mods

* Sump extension/ baffles + rear oild drain

* decent balance of everything

* valve train , titanium retainers / beefy springs etc. (with the right clearences) valve guides etc..

* pistons/ rods /bolts

Edited by rev210
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4346807
Share on other sites

i have 272 10.2 cams in and out,

jun pump

big port work

he sump

stud kit

ati balancer

pauter rods

cp pistons

custom gudgeon pins

o/s valves

hks springs

mnodified stock crank, snout and grubscrewed

oil mods

jun retainers

all blueprinterd and fully balanced

why wouldnty i be able to turn this to 9000rpm???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4347352
Share on other sites

i have 272 10.2 cams in and out,

jun pump

big port work

he sump

stud kit

ati balancer

pauter rods

cp pistons

custom gudgeon pins

o/s valves

hks springs

mnodified stock crank, snout and grubscrewed

oil mods

jun retainers

all blueprinterd and fully balanced

why wouldnty i be able to turn this to 9000rpm???

Some good bits. Power you are looking at that rpm?

Motors that are regularly seeing 9,000rpm and have what you have also usually are bolted up with a decent size turbo or two. If taken to 9,000rpm they usually are pumping lots of horses worth of air and that just means everything becomes one big consumable in time. At least having a spare block and the rest doesn't hurt.

If you are needing to take the motor to 9 for gearing reasons then obviously lopping off/limiting the power is helpfull for longevity.

If the motor is clearenced well and built properly, that short list of parts should help you go there a few times.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4347625
Share on other sites

dont ya love it when ya see those ebay chips that raise ya rev limiter to 9,000rpm hahahahaha

Ill take 2 so i can rev to 18,000rpm and also attach my new ebay VTEC controller and set vtec from 2000-18000rpm. They youz will all DIE!@@#@!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4348212
Share on other sites

depends how long you want the oil pump to last or break in half. evan with a "good" balancer.... id say safly to 8500. if you have an external oil pump the sky is the limmit so long as the valvetrain can keep up.

its just keeping the oil pump together is the only real factor limiting you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4359972
Share on other sites

You say -5's... then T04Z half way through the thread

which is it?

-5's wont need 9000rpm

The more time you spend at 9000rpm the higher the street cred.

Good point on the -5's too. 7500rpm will run them out to capacity more often than not. Just crank them up to 2 bar to get the power you want.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4360983
Share on other sites

for your engine and turbos 7800rpm is plenty.

ask your engine this. do you want it to be here for a good time or a long time? you can't have both. if you don't mind the odd wallet breaking rebuild then rev it to 9,000 all day long (though your peak power will have been passed at about 7500 if that). if you really want it to last keep it to 7800. that still gives you plenty to play with, with some small-ish low mounts as from 4,200 and up the party should be going.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4361942
Share on other sites

You say -5's... then T04Z half way through the thread

which is it?

-5's wont need 9000rpm

donkey mentioned -5's

den001 was talking about a T04Z on his 30 and reving to 9000rpm

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250921-gtr-redline/#findComment-4362272
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...