Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

go to supercheap auto, and grab a bendy magnet. Its a long flexible device with a powerful magnet on the end.

Poke that down there and it will grab it.

Just recently when replacing my airfilter, I dropped a nut down the afm into the mouth of the turbo. Instead of pulling the whole intake off, and possibly the turbo, I blindly shoved my bendy magnet down there, and out came the nut.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251011-help-bad/
Share on other sites

hey guys,

as you may of read my other post about that thing from the thermostat in the way of the welsh plug to get to the welsh plug, well i got that out today with ease, i was like sweet i can get to the welsh plug which went to the left of the hole,

so heres where my problem started,

as it was to the left of the hole, i took the welsh plug next to it out (to the left) and tried to reach across, i couldnt feel anything, so i tried going through the hole it was ment to come out, i felt it with the tip of my finger then it must of dropped down or something,

so now, i can reach it from any hole, its a copper welsh plug, can i just leave it in there? or how can i get it out?

i would be willing to pay some1 $30-40 an hour (obviously there would be a point i wont pay anymore if its still in there) if they could come round and do it for me because im about to burn this car,

any info would be good,

Thanks JV

Edited by sly32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251011-help-bad/#findComment-4346460
Share on other sites

Stewart Little would work for $30-40 and hour.

I wouldn't use blue tack, but I would use grease!!!

are u tacking the piss or is that some1 on this site? anyways ive found a mechanic that will come round to my house and work on the car with me, he was asking heaps of questions about it and thinks he will be able to get it easy if i cant,

blue tack would fall off and u need a bit of pressure to get it to stick,

grease??? wtf whats that going to do?

gurnie (spelling), take 1 hose off and shoot it out the other? that doesnt make sense at all really,

but i will be trying the claw thing, fingers crossed i can get it, the mechanic said depending where it is you can leave it, just cant be near the water pump, so im thinking i will have to get it out lol,

will update later,

JV

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251011-help-bad/#findComment-4349034
Share on other sites

Stewart Little is the mouse, yeah I was kidding.

The grease idea works, you use a bit of wire or some such with a small flat on it, you load the flat up with grease and then go fishing. If you lob it on the copper bit it will stick to the grease and then you can carefully retrieve it. I've done it before for various jobs and it works.

The best bit is that any grease you loose won't do any harm anyway [unlike blue tack].

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251011-help-bad/#findComment-4349209
Share on other sites

but i will be trying the claw thing, fingers crossed i can get it, the mechanic said depending where it is you can leave it, just cant be near the water pump, so im thinking i will have to get it out lol,

will update later,

JV

Why not use some duct tape, a vacuum cleaner, and a tube that is small enough to feed down to where this thing is but either big enough to suck it up, or with a tip that is likely to suction the item onto it and hold it.

Duct tape the smaller pipe to the end of your vacuum tube and away you go.

Of course you'd need to drain any liquids out first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251011-help-bad/#findComment-4349272
Share on other sites

somebody call Macguyver already

Macguyver would ground the comp cover up into filings and then set it alight to make a bomb and 'blow that sucker out'.

The vacuum cleaner idea is a good one [i've used it like that toclean out stud holes etc].

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251011-help-bad/#findComment-4350389
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting. Some of them were tight to lol
    • That's right, simple but works. Run out of load? Rescale the table lol. Want to be lazy and not rescale? Drag the K
    • @DraftySquash @Duncan he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car. anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70 if you take notice it’s the same shape.  well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says : - Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000) this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar. im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar       
    • Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
×
×
  • Create New...