Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok in a bit of a dilemma atm.

I’m looking to buy a new car to use as a street/ track car.

The eng doesn’t concern me as i plan to but a RB30DE (or TT) in to it.

so im looking at a HR31 skyline 89-90 or a R32 GTS-T.

the way i see it both have the following.

capability for r33 gts-t brakes

both have rb20det engs

both have irs

both 2dr

both manual

both roughly the same age.

my beget for a new car will be about 10k

post-32868-1231045392_thumb.jpg

post-32868-1231045440_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251024-hr31-v-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

get a 32... i wouldn't bother with a pintara

lol lol

dont forget the pintas were the silvia of the skylines and skylines were the skylines of the later years

ca18de pinta - ca18det in 180sx or s13

rb20det in HR31 - Rb20DET in r32

R32 has double wishbone suspension, and a whole lot of other minor differences, I can't really recall what exactly, which make life so much easier when it comes to modding - with the HR31 you're looking at say 5 stud conversion unless you buy one with it, then all of the suspension components are harder to find or you'll find yourself swapping parts out ie brakes for R32 ones anyway, pretty much any aftermarket HR31 specific gear which isn't already in Aus you'll have to get through R31 House in Japan (extremely expensive).

My best mate has a HR31 GTS which is currently undergoing a RB25NEO engine swap, now due to having to get about a million different bits and pieces, its taken a year and counting (not to mention the ongoing cost of the car is $10 000 and going up including purchase price, with no labour costs on there). He's obsessive compulsive about owning a 31 though, personally I wouldn't have the patience to wait an extended period like that, when at the end of the day it still has to get an engineer's certificate anway.

I guess if you're keen and either have lots of money or are mechanically minded it might not be so bad, all my mates with HR31's do all their own mechanical work, most of the problems seem to come down to 4 stud and suspensions.

You could probably get a better answer on the R31 forum though, most of the people on there are pretty helpful.

P.S In fairness though, the HR's have some unique nifty optional features like fans on the parcel shelf to filter out cigarette smoke, rain sensing wipers (mine aren't, not sure about other model skylines), GT Auto Spoilers, and in cabin suspension dampener settings (for standard suspension)

Edited by bozodos

Id have to agree with the 31..

My good mate of mine has one, and although its got its problems. Its still a really nice car to enjoy.

And with what your saying about doing to it, why wouldnt you want the uniqueness of it. :D

I love em, but something just steers me away from them. ^_^

R31 weighs more than R32 too..

it's almost in the R33 gtst weight.

also, red top RB20 is crap compared to silvertop.

R32 has the better brakes to begin with.

Not sure on DIFF differences between the 2.

so, the R32 is lighter, newer, better suspension, more power, better brakes at minimum.

but you know.. feel free to go for the wedge.

there is a following for them.

I was about to buy one that had a silver top and mods already done for about $6K, but an R31 loving freak on here talked me out of it.

im a self confessed 31 nut... that drives a 32 gtst...

i was in the same position as you... except im not planning a rb30dett.

i went the r32... because they are much easier to modify, as there a plenty more parts out there at a bargain price. i dont feel as bad about going nuts on it as they arent as rare as a 31... they are everywhere (not as much as 33's though) and i knew that all my effort wasnt going to be wasted as its a good overall base..

im going to get a nice 31 coupe, and keep it reasonably standard... the 32 is my all out car.

cheers

Linton

Edited by NZM.031

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
×
×
  • Create New...