Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok in a bit of a dilemma atm.

I’m looking to buy a new car to use as a street/ track car.

The eng doesn’t concern me as i plan to but a RB30DE (or TT) in to it.

so im looking at a HR31 skyline 89-90 or a R32 GTS-T.

the way i see it both have the following.

capability for r33 gts-t brakes

both have rb20det engs

both have irs

both 2dr

both manual

both roughly the same age.

my beget for a new car will be about 10k

post-32868-1231045392_thumb.jpg

post-32868-1231045440_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251024-hr31-v-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

get a 32... i wouldn't bother with a pintara

lol lol

dont forget the pintas were the silvia of the skylines and skylines were the skylines of the later years

ca18de pinta - ca18det in 180sx or s13

rb20det in HR31 - Rb20DET in r32

R32 has double wishbone suspension, and a whole lot of other minor differences, I can't really recall what exactly, which make life so much easier when it comes to modding - with the HR31 you're looking at say 5 stud conversion unless you buy one with it, then all of the suspension components are harder to find or you'll find yourself swapping parts out ie brakes for R32 ones anyway, pretty much any aftermarket HR31 specific gear which isn't already in Aus you'll have to get through R31 House in Japan (extremely expensive).

My best mate has a HR31 GTS which is currently undergoing a RB25NEO engine swap, now due to having to get about a million different bits and pieces, its taken a year and counting (not to mention the ongoing cost of the car is $10 000 and going up including purchase price, with no labour costs on there). He's obsessive compulsive about owning a 31 though, personally I wouldn't have the patience to wait an extended period like that, when at the end of the day it still has to get an engineer's certificate anway.

I guess if you're keen and either have lots of money or are mechanically minded it might not be so bad, all my mates with HR31's do all their own mechanical work, most of the problems seem to come down to 4 stud and suspensions.

You could probably get a better answer on the R31 forum though, most of the people on there are pretty helpful.

P.S In fairness though, the HR's have some unique nifty optional features like fans on the parcel shelf to filter out cigarette smoke, rain sensing wipers (mine aren't, not sure about other model skylines), GT Auto Spoilers, and in cabin suspension dampener settings (for standard suspension)

Edited by bozodos

Id have to agree with the 31..

My good mate of mine has one, and although its got its problems. Its still a really nice car to enjoy.

And with what your saying about doing to it, why wouldnt you want the uniqueness of it. :D

I love em, but something just steers me away from them. ^_^

R31 weighs more than R32 too..

it's almost in the R33 gtst weight.

also, red top RB20 is crap compared to silvertop.

R32 has the better brakes to begin with.

Not sure on DIFF differences between the 2.

so, the R32 is lighter, newer, better suspension, more power, better brakes at minimum.

but you know.. feel free to go for the wedge.

there is a following for them.

I was about to buy one that had a silver top and mods already done for about $6K, but an R31 loving freak on here talked me out of it.

im a self confessed 31 nut... that drives a 32 gtst...

i was in the same position as you... except im not planning a rb30dett.

i went the r32... because they are much easier to modify, as there a plenty more parts out there at a bargain price. i dont feel as bad about going nuts on it as they arent as rare as a 31... they are everywhere (not as much as 33's though) and i knew that all my effort wasnt going to be wasted as its a good overall base..

im going to get a nice 31 coupe, and keep it reasonably standard... the 32 is my all out car.

cheers

Linton

Edited by NZM.031

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
×
×
  • Create New...