Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got mine from UAS.It weighs about 10kg less than standard.the vents help under bonnet temps.Its not full CF but it looks rice nice saves me weight and heat.Plus i dont get stone chips.Driven it in rain through car washes ect and had no prob with water causing faults.Been pulled over by the cops in vic a few times and havnt been questioned on bonnet at all.Heres a pic of it

The only thing I would say about vents is that they MAY allow ingress of water if you run open coils (ie. minus the "Nissan Twin Cam 24 Valve" cover).

I realise that this is popular for people with older coils or Splitfire D1's. Water and coils do not mix.

For me a carbon bonnet is coming. I sorta put myself in a situation where I need one so I'll see how this goes.

T.

if you dont get the one with the air vent for the filter eg. series one bonnet, the no water will ge to the filter!! and if you do have the series 2 bonnet most cai will no thave opening on top to allow water to access the filter!!!

if i had the money i would get one asap, as well as the CF boot from Rezz!!!!

I got my bodykit being sprayed and fitted over the next 3 wks which has the cf wing blade. I think the cf bonnet would compliment it nicely although I need some 18's badddly.

so when they say they are not full carbon, then is it just the top section is carbon with the fibre glass frame? is the one from UAS like that? what about the one from japan? they should be like that too, so tell me what's the difference.

The difference is materials, quality and price.

Some of the 100,000+ yen Carbon bonnets on sale in Japan are a full carbon fibre bonnet panel, with an FRP skeleton frame underneath, meaning that when you open the bonnet, you can see carbon fibre weaving underneath. Legitimate 6-8kg bizness.

But most of them are an FRP "under panel/frame", with a carbon fibre "top panel". Cheap, look good, and do the job.

We lay carbon fiber for the body, wings, farings etc at uni, and its good but not as strong as you might think.

Carbon fiber is strong to a degree, but its very brittle.

It is highly illegal to have it on your car, as you know both fibreglass and carbon fiber shatters on impact, and its quite possible that the carbon fiber can snap in the middle and shear off into the windscreen, or break at the hinges and come into the windscreen. I wouldnt want to rearend someone with a *RP bonnet.

have a look at www.wreckedexotics.com for some really farked up accidents involving mainly italian exotic cars and a few 300zx/imports etc. Visualise what a *RP bonnet would do in the same crash.

Ricers argue that its good for weight saving, well i say run with 10 litres less petrol and you got your weight saving for nothing.

Good for venting underbonnet air no doubt, but i think some funky ducting in and out of the engine bay might do just as good. You could even run a small thermo fan with some ducts and have it comming out the underbody on the non exhuast side.

Its a show thing, but it comes at a high price, both in money and defect/accident hazard.

We lay carbon fiber for the body, wings, farings etc at uni, and its good but not as strong as you might think.

Carbon fiber is strong to a degree, but its very brittle.

It is highly illegal to have it on your car, as you know both fibreglass and carbon fiber shatters on impact, and its quite possible that the carbon fiber can snap in the middle and shear off into the windscreen, or break at the hinges and come into the windscreen. I wouldnt want to rearend someone with a *RP bonnet.

have a look at www.wreckedexotics.com for some really farked up accidents involving mainly italian exotic cars and a few 300zx/imports etc. Visualise what a *RP bonnet would do in the same crash.

Ricers argue that its good for weight saving, well i say run with 10 litres less petrol and you got your weight saving for nothing.

Good for venting underbonnet air no doubt, but i think some funky ducting in and out of the engine bay might do just as good. You could even run a small thermo fan with some ducts and have it comming out the underbody on the non exhuast side.

Its a show thing, but it comes at a high price, both in money and defect/accident hazard.

BTW, wtf is that "see a zed drift" thing on the UAS website.... thats not a drift, try dumping the clutch after the apex and smashing your deep dish rim in the gutter. farking retard!

Originally posted by MattyB

cf boot from rezz ?  wtf. i want one. as well as matching doors. mmmmm

Unfortunantly, you`d be looking at $1850 PER DOOR:headspin:, and $1250 for the Bootlid. But I can assure you, those doors are 6.0kg 100% Carbon Fibre...

  • 3 weeks later...

hate to be one to bring up yesterday , but i thought it easier to drop this question here , from what i can understand there are like 3 versions of the bonnet going around Type 1 , Type 2 and Jun , can someone verify this ?

T2 being the one i posted earlier ?

btw. I honestly don't think these 'carbon fiber' bonnets we get here are really baked in an oven (autoclave?) - real carbon needs to be laid down in a weave and cured by heat.

And yes I have one of these because you have to represent the rice :D

T.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...