Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the sigma 10-20 is a DC lens (hence why its part of the name)

sigma DC lenses are made for APS-C size sensors (ie crop bodies)

canon EF-S lenses are made for APS-C size sensors (ie crop bodies)

so yeah the 10-20 IS a EF-S "style" lens (ie made for crop bodies)

(they fact that it looks shit should give you an idea its not made to work with it lol)

edit: ps. wiki refs: sigma, APS-C

and for the record - im not saying "omg dont do it its gonna break your camera"

i dont even know what body you're using

was just a warning for if you didn't know

"apparently some lenses designed for APS-C sensors when fitted to some FF bodies

can cause damage"

;)

Played with my friends 5d mark 2 just before i left London the other day :D Such an awesome camera and with an 24-70L lens it was damn good!!

The quality from the camera+lens= WOW!!!

Bought a 430ex2 yesterday so got a new toy now!!

sorry i haven't been around for a while...needed a break from net and skylines...

so i went and bought this.....

3119475355_7e37717be6.jpg

then spent xmas sanding back for new coat....

plus deleting rear handles and all locks and rust etc.....

3155740782_049c9100ea.jpg

then paint and some pinstripes and VOILA!!!

still needs some bits etc, clean out the engine bay and whack in some doof

but it'll do for a while!

3225076488_cf34e98e35.jpg

so the poor 31 will have to take a backseat for a while :P

Edited by dodgsun

haha 4 of us at work decided to have a monthly compition - using the same topic as the Overclockers Australia - this month's was 'fruit and veg'

so took a few crappy pics (as seen here) and then decided to do something a bit more creative so yeah, girl friend made the one in the background and I made the other one :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...