Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys thought i might put this on here because it is doin my head in its seems to be lacking alot of power , before it did this it had lots of power pushing u back in ur seat ,but now its nothing like it i have gone all over the car checking if everything is conected and stuff but cant find out whats making it lose power as u accelerate , so if anyone could please help me out would really appreciate it ,thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251325-lacking-power/
Share on other sites

i will do mate thanks but the thing is that it still boosts up lol ,like its has heaps of boost but no grunt behind it , like u driving along in third or four and plant it lags like revs go down slightly and then slowly goes back, but not as a qiuck and responsive like it use to be?and i put a full tank in it and when i have been driving it. the fuel in now down to a quater of a tank and only have done 180km on the tank, i think its somewhere in the eletrontics somewhere,in my thinking it might be getting to much fuel ??? any other problems it might be?? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251325-lacking-power/#findComment-4355709
Share on other sites

arghh this is happening to me too!!! sorry to hijack mate but my car was lagging bad today too.. yesterday i cleaned out my AAC valve to sort out some idle issues i had.. and halfway to the city today the car starts to lag pretty much exactly as you described it.. and the idle is rough and lumpy.

any ideas? no mods really, as i said all i did yesterday was remove my AAC valve to clean it. pretty sure i put everything back on properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251325-lacking-power/#findComment-4358288
Share on other sites

similiar problem to me,

car lags a bit, and i had a really terrible idle.

sometimes car would stall if i take a corner too slow,

changed spark plugs, helped the idle 10%

cleaned aac, helped antoher 10%

changed back to stock bov, from atmo, fixed the whole idle problem nearly completely.

Only issues i have, is

cold start idle, really lumpy

but once i drive aaround the block

it idles fine,

car still lags a bit tho?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251325-lacking-power/#findComment-4359447
Share on other sites

well thats good to hear mate ur car is goin all rite but mine is still doin in my head im takin it down to a dyno place so they can tell me wats wrong wit it i think its running really rich other words alot of fuel that dont need to be in the engine lol

but no blck smoke tho

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251325-lacking-power/#findComment-4359982
Share on other sites

ok so last night the same shit happened again!! it seems like every 2nd or 3rd time i start it up.. it will begin to idle badly and struggle to make boost. then the next drive it runs perfectly! does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251325-lacking-power/#findComment-4360455
Share on other sites

ok so last night the same shit happened again!! it seems like every 2nd or 3rd time i start it up.. it will begin to idle badly and struggle to make boost. then the next drive it runs perfectly! does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251325-lacking-power/#findComment-4360456
Share on other sites

hey yea mine is still doing it but i think i somethin to do wit the computer or the wireing to it coz, i put my computer out and took the plastic cover off where the wires go and just pushed them in to make sure they are making contact, that seem to work for abit so i took it for a spin and then seemed fine , and i was rapped about it and then is started doing it again im going to go over the hole earths wires and everything else to make sure that everything is making contact , if any one else has any better ideas let us know thanks !!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251325-lacking-power/#findComment-4362568
Share on other sites

hey guy i went to the autoalic 2day and they found out y i was losing power , turns out that the nock sensor pug was playing up, and now go better , something that simply stuffs up everying lmao thanks for everyones help on this topic have a good one :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251325-lacking-power/#findComment-4379110
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...