Jump to content
SAU Community

Dodgy Install

kralster

By kralster,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

kralster Veteran

kralster

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I recently bought a decent head unit, amp, and 4 speakers for my car. Just wanted something better than the stock setup to listen to some nice music while driving.

A friend of mine offered to install it all for me and I took him up on the offer.

Problem is there are some things are stuffed and i don't know what I should do.

I'm not going to persue it with him, so what would you do?

Problems are...

- Clips that hold door trim on are broken so it just flaps when the door is open.

- Clip to hold heater controlls broken so it just flaps around.

- Clip to hold tailgate together (it's a wagon) broken so it flaps around.

- Rear left speaker makes quite a loud hissing sound when the car stereo is on but the car is not running. This turns into a buzzing noise when the engine is running. Any idea what this could be?

- Speakers in the rear seem to be vibrating a lot. So sounds is crap, that could be to do with the panels not clipped together.

I figure i should take it to a proper car audio place to get it all done right, but then what about the broken clips i need? They will charge a fortune to get them and install them all.

Or should i take it to the dealership and get them to try and fix it?

Otherwise is there anyone in adelaide who is reputable that would be willing to assist me (of course you will be paid)

Let me know guys, as i hate driving around in a car that has stuffed up bits.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251373-dodgy-install/
Share on other sites
turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted

New clips from dealer or wrecker, but you will find yours are probably just bent, and/or mis-aligned and not locked in.

Get the stereo system re-installed by someone you TRUST or a decent installer, as you cant rely on wiring and other stuff being right (especially with noises from the speakers).

Try not to rely on mates to do installations unless they have background experience and people to speak to about their work (not wortk risking a friendship over dodgey work).

B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251373-dodgy-install/#findComment-4352474
Share on other sites
Vik Mentor

Vik

Posted
Posted

Hissing while car is on, is the alternator noise.. Get a noise filter installed.. Can get one from Jaycar.

Secondly, rear speakers bouncing ? Make sure all the screws are tight and securing the speakers to the base / panel that its on.

Make sure the panel itself isnt dodgy and running around.

You didnt mention anything about the amp, how is the amp mounted ?

The clips would be around at a wrecker or dealer, try ripping the trim open first, i found most my clips just fell inside lols.

Take your time, tune your headunit aswell.

Would help if you stated what gear you have man.

Let us know.

For some more advice or stuff that we cant answer, ask Chris Rogers.. audio guru. :P

MRXTCZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251373-dodgy-install/#findComment-4352934
Share on other sites
kralster Veteran

kralster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

kk it's a 1997 TF magna wagon (i used to have a r34 but gave it up to get another motorcycle)

Parts are as followed

Sony amp XM-ZR604 600 watt jobby to power the four speakers

Sony head unit CDX-GT572

Sony 6 x9 3-way speakers rear

Sony 16cm 2-way speakers front

After work tonight i disconnected the rear left speaker cable at the amp. This made buzzing noise go away completely. No there is no feedback through any of the speakers.

Listening to the car now you can hear the speakers vibrate in the door trims and still in the tailgate. I'd put that down to shitty installment.

Mighty pissed off i am.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251373-dodgy-install/#findComment-4353902
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

ok

amp under passenger seat ( it fits nicely.) ground it on the foward seat mounts - there is a screw/10mm bolt hole there- grind the paint back and earth to that point. RCA leads run toward the radio panel and centre console. speaker wiring can follow. thats not a really big unit so the stock wirng is fine.

power can run through the grommet in the passenger kick area and back into the engine bay.

speakers- I'd be surprised if they were sealed at all. mitsi used a 6.75" speaker in the front doors and the sony ones are 6" with 6.5" mounts on them. if you have the originals make a plate up for them and drop the sony speakers into that.

rears - one of them is touching ground for a start. I'm surprised that amp didn't die.

they rely on a seal from the grills to work properly. no seal = crap sound.

as for clips - mitsi - they are all of 50c each. get all the ones that are broke. forget the wrecking yards. most of those are stuffed anyway.

how was the radio mounted?

if its cradled where was it earthed? hopefully to the dash frame and not via the radio antenna.

also the heater controls are one piece held in with two semi hidden screws in the top of the ac panel. they DO NOT have to be pulled to bits to get the radio out..

do you have dash lights?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251373-dodgy-install/#findComment-4354006
Share on other sites
Jack88 Experienced

Jack88

Posted
Posted

spot on there chris!, MR XTC suggested using a noise filter to get rid of the alternator whine. dont use one,they are a bandaid fix to a problem that should never of been there in the first place.re grounding your amp and making sure the RCA leads are run properly will fix this problem. how ever if it was a dodgy earth on the head units end that can cause the kind of noise your talking about too.

the TF magna isnt the most easy car to pull apart for begginers.....atleaset thats what iv found when they have been brought to me from people that have attempted them.they just seem to break everything, especially around the headunit area.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251373-dodgy-install/#findComment-4359826
Share on other sites
W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted (edited)
ok

amp under passenger seat ( it fits nicely.) ground it on the foward seat mounts - there is a screw/10mm bolt hole there- grind the paint back and earth to that point. RCA leads run toward the radio panel and centre console. speaker wiring can follow. thats not a really big unit so the stock wirng is fine.

power can run through the grommet in the passenger kick area and back into the engine bay.

speakers- I'd be surprised if they were sealed at all. mitsi used a 6.75" speaker in the front doors and the sony ones are 6" with 6.5" mounts on them. if you have the originals make a plate up for them and drop the sony speakers into that.

rears - one of them is touching ground for a start. I'm surprised that amp didn't die.

they rely on a seal from the grills to work properly. no seal = crap sound.

as for clips - mitsi - they are all of 50c each. get all the ones that are broke. forget the wrecking yards. most of those are stuffed anyway.

how was the radio mounted?

if its cradled where was it earthed? hopefully to the dash frame and not via the radio antenna.

also the heater controls are one piece held in with two semi hidden screws in the top of the ac panel. they DO NOT have to be pulled to bits to get the radio out..

do you have dash lights?

spot on there chris!, MR XTC suggested using a noise filter to get rid of the alternator whine. dont use one,they are a bandaid fix to a problem that should never of been there in the first place.re grounding your amp and making sure the RCA leads are run properly will fix this problem. how ever if it was a dodgy earth on the head units end that can cause the kind of noise your talking about too.

the TF magna isnt the most easy car to pull apart for begginers.....atleaset thats what iv found when they have been brought to me from people that have attempted them.they just seem to break everything, especially around the headunit area.

To ad to those comments, make sure the power wires from the amp are not run with the rca or speaker wires, that would cause the buzzing.

Edited by W0rp3D
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251373-dodgy-install/#findComment-4363999
Share on other sites
kralster Veteran

kralster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

kk well i bought a filter that completely eliminated the buzzing noise. Now as someone said that was a band aid fix so i'm getting the clips this weekend and will check all the ground wires.

He also had the amp setup in correctly, so i changed the switches on it, and now it sounds a million times better. he had also screwed with the gains on the head unit so putting those back fixed it up as well.

So really once I get all the clips done and fix up these earthing problems i should be hunky dorey.

Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251373-dodgy-install/#findComment-4370634
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • alburger87
      HY51 Fuga Hybrid

      By alburger87 · Posted

      Thanks! Will get it looked at before winter 🥶 other than that she's a mint ride love it aye 
    • joshuaho96
      How much roughly to convert stock r32gtr to single high mount turbo + ecu and tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • Watermouse
      R34 GTT Battery Relocation To Trunk

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • elir32
      Rv37 400r questions

      By elir32 · Posted

      Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • sonicii
      Rv37 400r questions

      By sonicii · Posted

      No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
×
×
  • Create New...