Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

my old r33 gtst ran low 13's consistantly with ;

Standard ecu + SAFC2

205 tyres on stock rims

turbo back exhaust (dump/front pipe custom made at Mettams mufflers in Morley, I thermal wrapped it)

standard air box (K&N element)

standard intercooler

10psi ( bleeder valve)

Pineapples (rear cradle bushes)

Light weight flywheel and upgraded clutch

With just these items I can get any decent nik R33 gtst into low 13's or with bigger tyres on the back straight into high 12's. Low 13's without spectacular 60ft times.

Notice the lack of Front mount intercooler.... Not needed to do this, get a good one when you upgrade the turbo and other kit.

That cars dyno after at the time of the low 13 was 175rwkw. It looked stock and was quiet and comfortable.

The JJR integrated split dump pipes are rubbish. They require machining to align the flange plate properly, the flange plates are sometimes not flat (warped).

Just get something from an exhasut place made. Without the split design. And then thermal wrap it.

Edited by rev210
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/page/4/#findComment-4358582
Share on other sites

my old r33 gtst ran low 13's consistantly with ;

Standard ecu + SAFC2

205 tyres on stock rims

turbo back exhaust (dump/front pipe custom made at Mettams mufflers in Morley, I thermal wrapped it)

standard air box (K&N element)

standard intercooler

10psi ( bleeder valve)

Pineapples (rear cradle bushes)

Light weight flywheel and upgraded clutch

With just these items I can get any decent nik R33 gtst into low 13's or with bigger tyres on the back straight into high 12's. Low 13's without spectacular 60ft times.

Notice the lack of Front mount intercooler.... Not needed to do this, get a good one when you upgrade the turbo and other kit.

That cars dyno after at the time of the low 13 was 175rwkw. It looked stock and was quiet and comfortable.

The JJR integrated split dump pipes are rubbish. They require machining to align the flange plate properly, the flange plates are sometimes not flat (warped).

Just get something from an exhasut place made. Without the split design. And then thermal wrap it.

thanks for ur help rev210 do u knw any good places for dump pipe and so u think with 200 atw a 14 flat is posable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/page/4/#findComment-4358607
Share on other sites

thanks for ur help rev210 do u knw any good places for dump pipe and so u think with 200 atw a 14 flat is posable

My thoughts are that you need to sheild that pod filter. The pod filter if it has no cold air feed and heat shield, sucks in very hot engine bay air.

Or just get a factory airbox and cold air feed from someone throwing thiers away. Perhaps you can even offer to swap. Keeps the cops out of your face too when you pop the bonnet.

Mettams mufflers in Morely is where I have always gone for my cars. Pat there is a master and his quality work is very cheap indeed.

Mild steel dump pipe to the cat in 3 inch. Shouldn't be too much.

Go grab yourself some pineapples for the rear sub frame. they are only a tad over $100 and you can fit them in your driveway with 15min, a bit of effort and a crowbar. Easier if you have a mate to help out.

The clutch is something to save for if you only have a standard one in there as drag racing and the modest power increase will see it on it's way quickly.

When my car was dyno'd at 190rwhp I ran 13.8. It's pretty easy to do so.

The thing about dyno's is that they are really only a tuning tool. Making car comparisons is not what they are good for. :D

Edited by rev210
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/page/4/#findComment-4358629
Share on other sites

Lorenzo, i think what you should do is race me for pink slips.. doo it, you know u want to :D

im takin mine to Wilkinson soon to get susp set up, good price and they sponsor some of the guys who drift at barbs.

needs to be done as i have ikeya formula lower control arms (which can either be set up for either drift or grip) rolls centers, whiteline sway bars etc etc..

Edited by Char
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/page/4/#findComment-4359588
Share on other sites

im takin mine to Wilkinson

:D:laugh::yes::cheers::banana::happy::mad::P:D :D

Blasphemy

Also if anyone wants some coilovers for their 32gtst my supplier has 1 set left at the price before the dollar dropped, shoot me a pm if anyone is interesed and ill give you prices and stuff but you will have to be really quick before it gets snapped up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/page/4/#findComment-4359830
Share on other sites

Lorenzo, i think what you should do is race me for pink slips.. doo it, you know u want to :D

im takin mine to Wilkinson soon to get susp set up, good price and they sponsor some of the guys who drift at barbs.

needs to be done as i have ikeya formula lower control arms (which can either be set up for either drift or grip) rolls centers, whiteline sway bars etc etc..

how much did u get quoted bro and u got no chance lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/page/4/#findComment-4359870
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...