Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys, basically the way this will work is:

I need your co-operation on the following:

Please state: Model, year & month (if not the first4 digits of your vin) & the first 3 digits of your engine number.

I.E. R33, Nov 95, (or alternatively ECR33-0633xx) & RB25-145xxx (could even specify S1.5)

from this information we can then compile a list to give approximations of what date an engine might be.

I.E. the RB26 list so far looks like the following:

R32 1994 45xxx

R33 1995 March 51xxx

R33 1995 May 55xxx

R33 1997 Feb 63xxx

Please only post if your car has the original eninge fitted thanks

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251414-dating-blocks-by-engine-number/
Share on other sites

RB26 List

R32 1994 July 42xxx

R32 1994 45xxx

R33 1995 March 51xxx

R33 1995 May 55xxx

R33 1997 Feb 63xx

RB25 List

R33 1995 Jan RB25-116xxx

R33 1995 Nov RB25-145xxx (S1.5 - Later coil packs)

RB20 List

Keep them coming guys, Hey cartman, sorry i couldn't use your information, if you don't know what month/year, i can look it up through nissan fast, from the full or partial vin number cheers...

RB26 List

R32 1994 July 42xxx

R32 1994 45xxx

R33 1995 March 51xxx

R33 1995 May 55xxx

R33 1997 Feb 63xx

RB25 List

R33 1995 Jan RB25-116xxx

R33 1995 Nov RB25-145xxx (S1.5 - Later coil packs)

RB20 List

Keep them coming guys, Hey cartman, sorry i couldn't use your information, if you don't know what month/year, i can look it up through nissan fast, from the full or partial vin number cheers...

Mines doesn't have a number just RB26, I have been told thats beacuse it was bought new from nissan. Its 2.7 by HKS in japan.

Cool guys, i am actually going out shortly to check some of my other skylines and get there details, once i have those i will report back. that would be top work cartman. Cheers...

RB20 & RB25 numbers will most likely be all over the show as they were used in other model cars. But we may be able to get somewhere with it.

just checked some more of my liners

R33 1993 Aug RB25-59xxx

R33 1993 Aug RB25-63xxx

R34 2000 Sep RB25-375xxx (S2 Neo)

RB25 List

R33 1993 Aug RB25-59xxx

R33 1993 Aug RB25-63xxx

R33 1995 Jan RB25-116xxx (S2 coil packs & AFM)

R33 1995 Nov RB25-145xxx (S2 coil packs & AFM)

R34 2000 Sep RB25-375xxx (S2 Neo)

This will be handy as i have a heap of engines, that hopefully soon i can work out what date etc they are

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...