Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have a 95 R33 gtst which currently has a fmic, turbosmart boost controller, bov, zorst.

as you can tell it's nothing to serious and is fairly standard. I am wanting to upgrade and was just wondering where you think I should start first? ie) turbo, ecu, injectors etc??

any advice would be appreciated,

Thanks,

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251427-what-next/
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

Good basis you have here.

First thing I would do is take the car to a mechanic and have a compression and leak down test done to assure the strengh of the engine (So it doesnt break if you make more power).

RB25's are strong and stock internals can see 250ish KW all day and it should be fine with the supporting mods.

I would get a Z32 AFM, say a Greddy GT-RS turbo, Power FC (If you can find one) 550/700cc injectors, If that boost controller is a bleed valve id get an electronic one, then a nice safe tune assuming the report came back fine from the tests. That would see an easy 250rwkw and that would be fine for you for the time being. If you want to go further, more boost ect that setup could push around 280-300 but I wouldnt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251427-what-next/#findComment-4352375
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

Good basis you have here.

First thing I would do is take the car to a mechanic and have a compression and leak down test done to assure the strengh of the engine (So it doesnt break if you make more power).

RB25's are strong and stock internals can see 250ish KW all day and it should be fine with the supporting mods.

I would get a Z32 AFM, say a Greddy GT-RS turbo, Power FC (If you can find one) 550/700cc injectors, If that boost controller is a bleed valve id get an electronic one, then a nice safe tune assuming the report came back fine from the tests. That would see an easy 250rwkw and that would be fine for you for the time being. If you want to go further, more boost ect that setup could push around 280-300 but I wouldnt.

Thanks mate,

It is a bleed valve which I know arn't the best and I will be def getting an eba. I'm getting abit of boost spike due to the bleed valve which is really annoying..as for everything that sounds good, I will get a compression test done. It's also just ticked over the 100k so need to get it a 100k service also.

yeah 250kw would be a very nice jump (untill i get bored of that and want to go faster :laugh: )

cheers for the advice mate much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251427-what-next/#findComment-4352389
Share on other sites

Yes getting the engine checked over for its health before doing anything is always the best move, you dont want to break the motor because you didnt replace a $150 part that would of been detected if you got the tests done.

250KW will beat every stock holden and ford on the road, it will be fun on the track as well.

Make sure you get a oil cooler if you plan on doing any track days or if you plan on giving the car a hard time. One can be had for around $300 i think. It will impove oil cooling very well.

All the mods ive listed would be doing it the "right" way. You could always get a high flow rb25 turbo, 550cc inj, z32, a wolf 3d or some cheaper ecu, and run 18psi.

Or do it right with good parts. Buy good brands stay away from cheap crap, you wont regret it. Just i hope you dont plan on selling the car soon because mods dont really hold their value.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251427-what-next/#findComment-4352420
Share on other sites

Yes getting the engine checked over for its health before doing anything is always the best move, you dont want to break the motor because you didnt replace a $150 part that would of been detected if you got the tests done.

250KW will beat every stock holden and ford on the road, it will be fun on the track as well.

Make sure you get a oil cooler if you plan on doing any track days or if you plan on giving the car a hard time. One can be had for around $300 i think. It will impove oil cooling very well.

All the mods ive listed would be doing it the "right" way. You could always get a high flow rb25 turbo, 550cc inj, z32, a wolf 3d or some cheaper ecu, and run 18psi.

Or do it right with good parts. Buy good brands stay away from cheap crap, you wont regret it. Just i hope you dont plan on selling the car soon because mods dont really hold their value.

I've had the car since Aug 08 and plan on keeping it for at least a few years.

I know what you mean about people modding their car cheaply and then end up running into all sorts of problems :laugh: and spending thousands and thousands for the same result as if it were done properly.

I'm also confident the gear box needs a reco as I'm getting a rattling sound in the gears up untill around 2000pm then it's ok. I think the bearings and or seals are shot. I have been quoted $1200 by 1 place in Syd for a reco or $2500 for a full GTR gearbox install inc. Think for now I'd go the reco as it's alot of money and I would rather spend that on other mods.

cheers mate,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251427-what-next/#findComment-4352468
Share on other sites

I like the way you think, My car was a perfect example. I modded it with expensive parts and known brands, Greddy, HKS and Apexi. My mate who had the same car at the time done cheaper mods (Just Jap FMIC $300 ect) and i ended up with 32 more KW's @ the wheels over him and he had a newer engine with better compression.

My cylinders was 154 accross all 6. 148-155 is good

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251427-what-next/#findComment-4352716
Share on other sites

firstly how much do you wanna spend?

whats the car for?

ecu is def the next step for you, as well as some suspension work. pfc is the obvious option.

there's no point having all that power on a stock suspension setup IMHO

i'd rather have a highflow with stock injectors and afm @ 230 rwkw with a full house suspension setup than 250 with stock suspension

just food for thought :(

my journey went like this... (in rough order)

car - 33 gtst (came with with FMIC, clutch and lowered springs, short shifter)

wheels

full service and checkup

pod in box with CAI

slotted rotors DBA 296mm & good pads

PFC

splitfire coilpack (were broken so had to)

new plugs BCPR7ES gapped @ 0.8

tune

coilovers

strut brace

swaybars front and rear

castor bushes

camber bushes

pineapple bushes

hicas lock bar

cosmetic mods

audio visual mods

EBC

fuel pump

injectors

z32 afm

adj ex cam gear

new turbo

tune

prolly forgot stuff but get the general flow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251427-what-next/#findComment-4353216
Share on other sites

firstly how much do you wanna spend?

whats the car for?

ecu is def the next step for you, as well as some suspension work. pfc is the obvious option.

there's no point having all that power on a stock suspension setup IMHO

i'd rather have a highflow with stock injectors and afm @ 230 rwkw with a full house suspension setup than 250 with stock suspension

just food for thought :(

my journey went like this... (in rough order)

car - 33 gtst (came with with FMIC, clutch and lowered springs, short shifter)

wheels

full service and checkup

pod in box with CAI

slotted rotors DBA 296mm & good pads

PFC

splitfire coilpack (were broken so had to)

new plugs BCPR7ES gapped @ 0.8

tune

coilovers

strut brace

swaybars front and rear

castor bushes

camber bushes

pineapple bushes

hicas lock bar

cosmetic mods

audio visual mods

EBC

fuel pump

injectors

z32 afm

adj ex cam gear

new turbo

tune

prolly forgot stuff but get the general flow

the car is my daily but i'd also like to take it to the track (not turn it into a track car) and the occasional drag. So basically just a daily street car.

I don't neccesarily have a specific budget as I will obviously be out laying money over a period of time but i'm not too fussed as I have a mate in NZ thats put more than 40k into his rb30 s14 so I know it's costly lol.

first things first I need to fix the gear box then get it a major service.

since i will be doing to modding in small parts, just wondering after the service and gear box reco what I should do? I'm thinkin pod, afm, pfc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251427-what-next/#findComment-4353265
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...