Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have a TD06-20G, and looking at US websites there are plenty of places that put Garret wheels on the Mitsubishi turbos. So considering the 20G does ok to flow 260rwkws odd on an RB20, are they any Garret wheels the same size, possibly a little larger that will flow a bit more then the 20G?

Happy to go a bit larger as i understand the next Mitsu wheel is the 25G that runs a bigger shaft so cant be used to hi flow my turbo. Maybe its time to just throw the larger 10cm housing back on or fo the T67? I think i am pegged at my curent power level because of back pressure from the tiny 8cm housing

Anyone know of back to back results going from TD06-20G to T67-25G on an RB20, SR20 etc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251473-question-for-turbo-geeks/
Share on other sites

i know rotormaster (melb) has played with mixing compressor wheels, but as for turbine wheels im not sure, ive asked the question and so far they all reckon its to dear to machine up the shafts etc... and ust try sell you a turbo :(

the t67 on the rb20 is pretty big (vs response) what is your power goal?

Edited by URAS

I dont mind the lag, i have something to counter that, i am just looking for a bit more grunt hopefully around the 285-295rwkws.

I have thought about just going to the 10cm housing and throwing some baby cams in the RB20 , as previously there is some thinking that the cams didnt work too well in my engine because of the back pressure from the little 8cm housing. SO perhaps cams and the 10cm housing will be enough to beef up the power band.

Trent, do you happen to have a 10cm housing around as i think my friend sold my old one i swapped with him.

I dont mind the lag, i have something to counter that, i am just looking for a bit more grunt hopefully around the 285-295rwkws.

I have thought about just going to the 10cm housing and throwing some baby cams in the RB20 , as previously there is some thinking that the cams didnt work too well in my engine because of the back pressure from the little 8cm housing. SO perhaps cams and the 10cm housing will be enough to beef up the power band.

Trent, do you happen to have a 10cm housing around as i think my friend sold my old one i swapped with him.

nah sorry, none laying around :(

Busy today Roy but will sniff around the compressor situ .

I don't suppose you have pics of your turbo you could PM me ?

I think Trust may have speced a few specials but need to do some searching .

An American site called Melett has some Mitsy turbo specs like shaft dimensions .

Also GT pumps here in Aus advertise that they do Mitsy mods as well . Early Evos , pre Evo 4 , had normal rotation turbos so it may be interesting to see what they did with those .

Later , cheers A .

I believe the classic famous FPGreen turbo is a 50trim T04E compressor wheel mated to a Mitsi hotside - they flow a bit better than the 20G and by all accounts have a really good power delivery. I wouldn't expect a night and day difference but maybe another 20kw or so wouldn't be out of the question.... its a bit hard to tell for sure, but they certainly seem to be able to make cars go well.

I cant see a TD06 making 300rwkws unless it has a rotary sized exhaust housing, even then it is a big ask. I know the 10cm housing on my car wasnt great, but my current tuner is a wizard and is real good at somehow getting my car do stuff it shouldnt :)

I just need to start driving the thing again, all this tinkering rubbish goes away once you are back driving :)

All these hand feed sessions people have about ho good 6Boost manifolds are then perhaps that is worth giving a try to see if they are any better then the Greddy ones? If it does really help spool then go back to the 10cm and see if i can get away with some baby cams

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmm. I should have thought of the clutch bleeding issue. It should be #1 thought for "can't select gears". As to "sounds like the top".....have you actually gone out with the stethoscope and tried to pin it down any more than that? And, buy or borrow a timing light, and set the timing properly.
    • I don’t really have any ideas how to set the timing on the CAS 😂, sounds like the top, sounds like it maybe misfiring as well as ticking,  got the box sorted 😌, must of been a air bubble on the clutch side
    • Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc. Use a timing light to set the timing. Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now. Failing that - rebuild the box.
    • Well done Duncan. The fuel tank bulkhead lid is also in great condition (some of mine were stuffed). These are now out of production and good ones like that are becoming hard to come by.
    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
×
×
  • Create New...