Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I am wanted to run my RB30Det to look stock.

So, after I got an idea from someone on here, this is what I've started!

The first photo is of the welded oil gallery that feeds oil from the RB25 Block and supplies oil to the VVT.

The RB30 block only has a water jacket there and most people weld this hole anyway.

You could add a grub screw instead of welding, but I know that the weld is there for good and it is metal a very long way down the gallery!

The second photo is of the plug that is coming out (orange bit) to allow me access to the oil rail that feeds oil to the cam buckets..

I will be making a 'plug' that will fit in here next week (I hope!) and I will show a step by step account of how I did it all..

While the head is apart, I got the die grinder up into the oil return ports.. the foto isn't real clear, but have a look in yours and you will see what I am on about, It looks like a monkey made the holes!

post-34369-1231401640_thumb.jpg

this will be interesting, i've been look at the rb25 head and thought that if the timingbelt/gear wasnt in the way it would be a great place to supply oil to the vct, what sort of clearance are you going to have between the plug and cam gear?

I am getting oil from inside the head. No external oil lines. Nobody will ever know its there!

The coloured plug is coming out and I am going to machine a new plug out of brass to go back in there.

The new plug will get oil from the oil rail that supplies oil to the cam buckets.

The new plug with have a hole in it and the VVT will work as per normal.

No where for oil to leek, keeps things neat and tidy because there is nothing to look at!

The new plug will be hidden behind the cam gear,

you would only ever see the plug if you took the cam gear off and actually see the end of the little brass plug..

The plug you want to pull out is pretty long, its a bit tricky to get out but can be done easily once you have done it once. You need to drill right through it with a 2mm then 5mm and tap to 6mm to get a bolt ina nd pull it out.

The darker plug is the original unit. I could have used the original plug but I had tapped just a little too far into it when I removed it. The thick end of the plug is 12mm long. So, If you dont want to make a new plug, dont tap that far down.

I then drilled a 2mm hole down the cam buckets end (in the new plug) and then drilled a 1.5mm hole to allow oil into the passage where I wanted the oil! Jobs done, re-insert the plug and continue on your merry way!

post-34369-1232099526_thumb.jpg

post-34369-1232099793_thumb.jpg

post-34369-1232099855_thumb.jpg

Now for a few more pics..

the pink filled bit in the cam journal is where the oil is fed into the bearing (that now comes from my new mod), and the Green bit is where the oil is fed to the VVT..

The pink circle is where the new plug will be inserted.

The brass plug is the return oil passage from the VVT solenoid to the head.. not much exciting in there, but I just wanted to look in there!

post-34369-1232100012_thumb.jpg

post-34369-1232100067_thumb.jpg

ohh, I used a 3/16 bolt as a puller to pull the plug out. Its just a bolt I had in the tool box and I had a tap to cut the thread that matched. I spaced it out from the plug with a socket.. It wasn't overly hard to get out.

It was all a bit easy, and if I ever do it again, I reckon I could do the hole job in about half an hour! (now I know what I'm looking at!)

Cheers, I hope it helps a lot of others out!

Now for a few more pics..

the pink filled bit in the cam journal is where the oil is fed into the bearing (that now comes from my new mod), and the Green bit is where the oil is fed to the VVT..

The pink circle is where the new plug will be inserted.

The brass plug is the return oil passage from the VVT solenoid to the head.. not much exciting in there, but I just wanted to look in there!

The green bit is the oil exit from the journal/vvt. If you look at the cam you will see a groove around it. the vvt solenoid blocks the return (green drain) and this pressurises the journal which pressurises the cam and pumps up the vvt mechanisim.

Nice job btw!

Have you welded up the oil feed in the head surface? you could insert a straight brass plug without machining the sides out of it and not need to weld up the oil feed in the bottom of the head surface.

I was amazed at how quick it was to do.. If you dont drill and tap as far down the original plug like I did, you will be able to reuse the plug and drill the new oil holes like my new plug and re-insert it. It wont cost you a single dollar! All done (even if you stuff around) in well under an hour..

How great is that? No external oil lines or fittings or any possablity of anything leaking and having it all going wrong!

It keeps the VVT working as per normal, there is nothing on the outside of the engine to give the RB30det secret away (other than the height) and it will all look like it was made like that.

where did you get the new plug from? nissan? EDIT: Just re-read it and you got one machined :angry:

So you drilled the 2mm whole in the bottom of the plug, but how far along did you drill the 1.5mm whole to feed the vct?

Well Done!

Edited by R34GTFOUR

The thinner end of the plug faces the oil from the cam buckets oil gallery..

I drilled the 2mm hole in that end (as you will be able to see in the 1st foto). The hole is only long enough to clear the first part of the plug. In the second foto of the plugs, you will see the hole in the 'shaft' part of the plug. This is were the the oil will be feeding oil in from the cam bucket oil rail and into the port where we need the oil. The oil used to come in from the bottom (which I welded) up past the plug and then continue up into the cam bearing.. So, no the oil feeds in through the plug, & the rest of the oil system is untouched.. and I reduced the amount of oil going to the top end which everybody is also wanting to do..

Does that make sense?

Edit: If you want to do this mod, dont make my mistake and drill too far into the plug. Its only 12mm long in the thick end (this is the end that you will see) Only drill 8mm or so, tap it with a small tap (3/16 is what I did.. it works a treat, or something about that size) and then you can just reuse the same plug!

Edited by psi
  • 1 month later...

Damn!!!! Nice work, I am now embarking on this with a Neo R34 head on an RB26 block. Was wondering if you could just clip off the entire end of the plug and just let oil come in from the cam side totally and feed the VCT? Is that even an option rather than drilling the plug and then feeding it to the VCT setup? Any care to let me know what are the effects if this is done?

Damn!!!! Nice work, I am now embarking on this with a Neo R34 head on an RB26 block. Was wondering if you could just clip off the entire end of the plug and just let oil come in from the cam side totally and feed the VCT? Is that even an option rather than drilling the plug and then feeding it to the VCT setup? Any care to let me know what are the effects if this is done?

Dont snip the end of the plug off! If you do that, you will end up with WAY too much oil in the port and also risk starving the cam buckets the oil they want!

I coppied (so to speak) the factory oil system, used same sized oil feed holes. This means that the solinoid works exactly as it did beofre on the RB25!

I left the photo's thumb nails on the forum, if you want them really large just click on the foto you want to look at and it will be page sized!

This helps with the people who are looking for the finer details..

Edited by psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...