Rb25/30 Rb30det Vvt Internal Oil Control

[The Mafia]

HI Guys, just letting you know that factory restrictors (RB30 ones) are not good. Dumped a fair bit of oil in my catch can.

Make sure you fit restrictors even if you do this mod.

[r32-25t]

looks like a great way to do it all

suprising its taken this long for someone to work it out

kinda hard to believe nissan didnt do it this way

Edited January 3, 2011 by r32-25t

[JonnoHR31]

they probably had a good reason not too. maybe they wanted a seperate feed for better pressure or something. i'm sure they put a lot more thought into it than anyone here would

[The Mafia]

they probably had a good reason not too. maybe they wanted a seperate feed for better pressure or something. i'm sure they put a lot more thought into it than anyone here would

Well, I've upped my oil pressure. I'm sure that would help a fair bit.

[The Mafia]

Hi Guys, I did this mod yesterday.

Its f**king easy!

Here is what I did.

1. Went and grabbed a Tap and Drill to suit. 5mm is plenty.

2. Grabbed a Bolt to suit the tap, a nut, and a big washer like in the pic.

Tap the back of the brass plug. Only drill and tap about 6-7mm. MEASURE YOUR DEPTH.

Screw the nut right to the head of the screw. Put the washer behind the nut. Then screw your contraption into the back of the brass plug as far as it will go. Wind the nut against the washer, which will now be pushing onto the head.

Get a socket, and hold the head of the bolt still.

Get a small spanner, and tighten the nut slowly. The pin will come out easily.

Now, Get a piece of wood in a vice in a drill press. Find a drill as big as the pin, and drill a hole in the wood. You want the pin to fit tightly.

Drill a 2mm hole into the small end of the pin. Make sure it is right in the center.

Intercept the hole with a 1.5mm drill. A hand drill and a steady hand is the best. Its brass - So its soft. Should be easy.

Drill your oil feed (Picture taken from underneath the head)

Tap a Taper thread into the head oil feed, and grub screw it nice and tight.

Jobs done.

Took about 30mins.

Edited January 5, 2011 by The Mafia

[JonnoHR31]

wow you were lucky, i had to drill a fair way into myne just to get enough bite to pull it out. tried 5-6mm at first and the bolt just pulled out and stripped the thread. think i ended up leaving the bolt in there and cutting it off to plug up the gaping hole i left

Edited January 6, 2011 by JonnoHR31

[psi]

I've heard of a few plugs that refuse to play the game.

I thought I would have that issue and got some brass just incase..

If you do break or mangle it, you will have to make a copy.

Nice pics Mafia

Edited February 6, 2011 by psi

[30ed32]

hah the wood for the pin i did the exact same thing

[sriver killer]

I am going to bring this thread back up.

Has anyone had success doing this?

I have currently done the above and have had no luck with getting my vct working.

someone please share with me their success?!!!!

[JonnoHR31]

never tested it for certain but myne seamed to be working fine, i run larger head feeds than most people reccomend though, mainly because the vct has its own 1.5mm feed, which uses up a fair bit of oil.

how exactly did you do it and what size head feeds are you running?

[sriver killer]

never tested it for certain but myne seamed to be working fine, i run larger head feeds than most people reccomend though, mainly because the vct has its own 1.5mm feed, which uses up a fair bit of oil.

how exactly did you do it and what size head feeds are you running?

I followed this thread and have the 1.5mm hole through from the lifter gallery into the vct chamber.

1.5mm oil restrictors in both.

ATM the vct is clicking to engage but it is not moving the cam. sounds to me like an oil pressure issue?

[JonnoHR31]

if the motors in and running at the moment try the easy shit first like a known working solenoid, yours might click but could be broken inside. assuming you've checked the solenoid is getting the correct signal from the ecu at the correct rpm? next step would probably to try another cam gear.

2 1.5mm feeds should be enough

[sriver killer]

if the motors in and running at the moment try the easy shit first like a known working solenoid, yours might click but could be broken inside. assuming you've checked the solenoid is getting the correct signal from the ecu at the correct rpm? next step would probably to try another cam gear.

2 1.5mm feeds should be enough

Solenoid swap is in next on the cards,

I am just after some solid proof that this actually works, as I am leaning towards running the external feed into the head.

I was under the impression that the hydraulic lifter gallery might be too low a pressure to get the vct to work.

[JonnoHR31]

havent seen any rock solid proof but oil pressure should be fine if the head feeds are large enough. in standard form the 25 has 2 1.5mm head feeds and a seperate 1.5mm feed for vct. so currently you effectively have 2/3 the standard oil being fed to the head, which would normally be about right given the flooding issues you have when revving them for any extended period. but at the same time the vct still needs just as much oil and if its getting it then the rest of the head is only left with half what it has in standard form.

have you checked your actually getting oil pressure to the vct? easiest way would be to pull the intake cam cover off and make sure no1 cam cap is getting pressure.

[sriver killer]

havent seen any rock solid proof but oil pressure should be fine if the head feeds are large enough. in standard form the 25 has 2 1.5mm head feeds and a seperate 1.5mm feed for vct. so currently you effectively have 2/3 the standard oil being fed to the head, which would normally be about right given the flooding issues you have when revving them for any extended period. but at the same time the vct still needs just as much oil and if its getting it then the rest of the head is only left with half what it has in standard form.

have you checked your actually getting oil pressure to the vct? easiest way would be to pull the intake cam cover off and make sure no1 cam cap is getting pressure.

I have not done any diagnosing just yet, first weekend off since the rush to get the dirty thirty on the road.

Going to have a bit of a browse tmrw. I have this feeling that a remote oil feed is on the cards

[sriver killer]

anyone want to confirm with me whether this actualy works yet?

Definitely have oil pressure to my cam gear. but hydraulic lifter gallery = low pressure side.

Considering drilling and tapping into the head while it is still on

Cheers

[Hardenedup]

Hello all

I have read through this topic and noticed that members start talking about adding in restrictors. Is this pre assembly and an alternative to welding?

I only ask because I have a RB30 in car, It has been in the 33 for quite a while (2004ish I want to say). The car has been off the road for around 3 years now though and I am looking at getting it back to its former glory days. I found this topic and could not really find a reason that I am unable to perform this now with the motor still in the car and remaining assembled. Yes there would be some mess to clean up, But that's not really a huge issue.

That was until the talk of restrictors came up.

Originally when the motor was built the oil feed in question was welded off due to the water feed being below (could be the other way around, It's been along time ). The pictures above are confusing me a little, in particular "Drill your oil feed (Picture taken from underneath the head)" and "Tap a Taper thread into the head oil feed, and grub screw it nice and tight.". I apologize if this is just morning stupidity.

In my head I don't need to consider these two steps and just stick with the original pull, drill (2mm & 1.5mm), plug and enjoy VVT again.

Is this correct?

Thank you for your time.

[JonnoHR31]

ignore the grub screw, it was used as an alternative to welding the head but it doesnt work, you must weld it as you've already had done.

aslong as your other 2 head feeds are large enough to support vct aswell then you should be able to just drill out the brass plug as shown and plug vct back in. be sure to flush all the metal shavings out of the first though and then pour heaps of oil in the area and dump it out of the sump.

[30ed32]

I've gone with 2 x 1.25mm restrictors and 1.5mm drilled hole for the vvt/first lobe. Although I don't use vvt anymore, the car is running good and has been for a while.

[sriver killer]

ignore the grub screw, it was used as an alternative to welding the head but it doesnt work, you must weld it as you've already had done.

aslong as your other 2 head feeds are large enough to support vct aswell then you should be able to just drill out the brass plug as shown and plug vct back in. be sure to flush all the metal shavings out of the first though and then pour heaps of oil in the area and dump it out of the sump.

ive got two 1.5mm restrictors in the block.

Will give it a go pain in the arse having to drill the head while the engine is assembled/in car