Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , lots a people who use Power FC's on R33s give some thought to using the Z32TT AFM and although wiring them in is not a biggy I though this idea may interest those who don't like cutting std wiring looms .

I bought my Z32 AFM from that place in the same approximate area as Silver Water Automotive but on the other side of the main drag .

At the time I asked about the plug adapter and was mistakenly of the opinion that it would plug to the std R33 AFM plug and the Z32 AFM , should have learnt by now never to assume anything .

I think the bite was 30ish dollars for the "flying lead flat plug" and I though nah at the time . Someone here mentioned that VL Commodes use the same plug fitting as the TT AFM and I haunt Pick and Payless so I grabbed (cutters) a few next time I was there .

The thing I couldn't find until today was an AFM that used the same 3 pin fitting as the std RB25's one , turns out 1995 Mazda 626's use the same thing so I murdered a couple of those to get the male side of the union .

Like on the 25 AFM the fittings plastic shroud is held to the AFM with two phillips head screws but it wont come apart because the three steel strips inside are soldered to a circuit board and there's silicon gunge to seal crud out .

You need to "persuade" the plastic lid to exit the unit and then you can see where the steel strips come in from the back of our male plug . You can snip these with wire cutters (in front of the resistor like striped gadgets) and feed them back through the silicon sealant - once the external screws are removed .

So now you have the male fitting and it plugs straight into your R33's female AFM plug . If you got yourself the 7 pin flat plug from a VL what you now need to do is join them together and you have a solution that requires no tools to plug into a std AFM or the Z32TT one .

To make the new male fitting workable you could solder three wires to the thin steel strips and use something to glue it together so that the steel strips wouldn't work harden and break off with vibration etc .

Maybe Jaycar has something that the plastic shroud could screw to in the way of a proper plug backing and that filled in to support the new wires/steel strips .

Any thoughts ?

Cheers A .

Hey Disco,

I considered swapping the male plug over on my Z32 (the std afm being the donor) but decided against molstering my shinny new z32 and simply spliced the VL afm plug in to the existing loom.

Nice and tidy and provides provision for plugging the stock afm back should the need arise.

Out of the std afm's I've repaired I have not come across a s2 r33 one as of yet. If the male plug dimensions are the same it would be a simple matter of de-solder from the pcb then resolder the new male plug, 2 screws and a little black silicon.

Yeah mine is not the easiest method but it just means that you can use this adapter sub loom to plug into the Z32TT one and go back to std quickly and easily if required . Sort of what the Japanese'd call a "bolt on" thing , the AFM is bolted on ...

Cheers A .

As above my Z32 is spliced and soldered into the existing wiring so i have the option of plugging the standard one straight back on if need be.

Thats how mines done, spliced it in with the stock one so you can swap over between the two. This is an interesting aternative though...

Edited by MintR33
  • 5 weeks later...

Hey guys i just recently purcahsed a z32 AFM, Where do i get this plug from? People are saying a VL commordore plug will fit? if so , how much roughly? do you guys think it will cost? Do i need the cables as well or just the plugs and my tuner can do it from there? or do i need to give him the plug and the cables?

A little more info in case anyone is looking for the male plug fitting that S2 R33 GTS25T's have on their std AFM's .

Some of the mid 90's Mazda 626's have a transister which uses this same plug .

Their male plugs are moulded into a rectangular composite box which has an aluminium plate glued to the mounting side .

When you remove (pry gently) this plate of the box is full of a gelatinous silicon solution , the electronic guts are on the inner side of the ally plate .

Once the guts are removed you are left with the three pins which you could solder three wires to and feed out through holes you could drill in the rear of the box . Fill the empty space with araldite (not acid cure silastic) and wire your VL type AFM plug to your three wires .

Plug the adapter box to your R33s AFM plug and the VL type one to your VG30TT AFM . Easy ?

Cheers A .

No , the plug off the Mazda Transistor box (or some Mazda AFMs) is what is needed to plug the R33 std AFM loom (car harness side) into .

To spell it out , your R33 GTSTs factory AFM has a male 3 pin shrouded connector to which the std female loom connector plugs into .

I have not been able to find the necessary 3 pin male plug other than on R33 AFMs/some 90s era Mazda AFMs and or transistor .

Like I said earlier I want to make an adapter loom which plugs into an R33s std female loom plug and the Z32TT AFM at its other end .

The Z32TT AFM can use the same plug as VL Commodores use so if hard up cut one off a Commode at a wrecker . New is always preferable with electrical plug fittings but second handies if in good nick (no dry or high resistance joints) can work too .

A .

I think you've come up with a good idea changing the male side of the plug, but as many have said i think its alot easier just to add in the Z32 plug along with the standard one. And plus I know id be reluctant to open up and chop up my Z32 AFM.

...and also FYI late model Nissan Maximas have the same Z32 plug on their AFM as well. So another cheap alternative to VL connectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...