Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

coby extractors (about $350) - www.partsco.com

fujitsubo extractors - (about $2500) - www.takakaira.com

i only have experience with coby extractors (quite a few others on here have them) and they gave a lot more low to midrange power making the car a lot quicker for normal, everyday driving. i maybe lost a little top end power, but it may only feel like that due to the increased low to mid power (if that made sense). i highly recommend them.

i too have the coby extractors, and gregs right, low-mid is great, however i didn't notice that drop in top end - it still kicks at 4-5 thou, and stays on a little longer if anything. the 2litre might behave a bit differently though.

I was thinking about that sucking noise under power though - has anybody stood in front of the car and revved it to see where the noise is coming from? i still have the stock airbox and intake snorkel, and the noise is still quite pronounced. Might be noise of flow through the extractors themselves rather than the intake...? ill have to have a closer listen on the weekend....

what i was trying to say is that the top end power was probably unchanged but it just felt less in comparison to the power that was made available in the low to mid range. still making no sense!?

pstanbis, the sucking sound is very annoying isn't it :rofl: i was told by an exhaust shop that it is resonance in the extractors. ways to reduce the noise (by muffling the sound):

. wait for them to be coated in carbon/exhaust residue. mine quietened down after about 1500km's, but only a little.

. wrap them in exhaust wrap. i considered this but its quite expensive, if not done properly shortens the life of the extractors. its a bit of a hassle to take the extractors off, clean them of all rust etc, then paint, wrap and paint them, and then put them back on.

I was annoyed at the fact that it's very hard to run a cold air pipe from lower bumper to the filter box - coz as you all should know, the air flow through the filter goes DOWN. Instead, I got a K&N pod and made a FULLY SEALED (screws) and INSULATED heat shield from aluminium sheet and ran a 3" PVC pipe up onto the pod. Runs fantastic on the higway.

Greg,

Cripes - I'd love post a pic but I don't have a digital camera. I'll Explain it differently :

Air enters the scoop just above the radiator and flows into the top half of the filter box, passes through the filter into the bottom of the box, then runs off to the throttle body.

A cold air feed pipe normally runs from the bumper area directly into the filter box, but with the above setup the pipe it's a lot harder to get a large sized cold air pipe to feed the top half of the filter box. So I just went for a pod and a pipe that feeds the pod.

Does that explain it better?

hey greg i now have that sound ur describing. i got the resonator and middle muffler taken out of the hks system and it now sounds so bad i dont want to drive it. i went back and got a new resonator which almost cured it but the car is too quiet now, i was thinking of selling the hks system but im now not gonna bother as the new engine is on the cards.

hey john sorry to hear your exhaust sounds shit! i was considering removing the middle muffler to give it a tougher sound but now i've read that i won't bother.

i finally discovered what was making the sound, this might help you, here's the story:

I was driving along and all of a sudden my exhaust got REALLY loud. i stopped and looked under the car and sure enough mr muffler (who fitted my extractors and cat) had failed to use split washers and the bolts on the cat had vibrated loose, letting exhaust gas escape. so i drove around for a bit enjoying the exhuast note (:() and then took it home and reversed onto ramps. i removed the cat and discovered two things:

1. mr muffler had combined 2 broken gaskets to try and make a good one, it obviously failed.

2. in the cat there was heaps of little drops of weld mr muffler had failed to remove.

these 2 items were the cause of my dodgy sound - the leaky gasket and the weld droplets. so i reused an old gasket i hard lying around (it was heaps better than the ones mr muffler installed) and vacuumed all the weld droplets out of the cat. the exhaust sounds awesome now and i'm going to take a sound clip soon and post it up (just for your joe, if you're reading this :D),

cheers

greg

I was going to get some extractors soon!

Why the huge difference between coby extractors and fujitsubo extractors??

Does it make a big enough difference to warrant the noise and money?

Secondly I only have a stock exhaust and would change at the same time! What brands would be good at reasonable price?

Can any one tell me the KW given before or after? I really have no idea what the power of my NA R33 is???

  • 2 years later...
I'm thinking i'll go for the K&N panel filter and try to incorporate twin air vents on each side of the bonnet for better air flow. Might try getting some stiff pipe hooked on underneath the bonnet going from the air vent to the air box. I might also try some flexi pipe running from the botom of the bar into the engine bay. Just ideas.... :P

Also, can anyone recommend some Brand name extractors and their experience with them? what kinda power boost should i be expecting?

i have a 91 R32 GTS with a RB25 n/a and i have just changed my ashmatic air filter to a proper k&n filter and the power difference was amazing. and i have also had fited a set of custom made pacemakers fitter to it about a year ago and it has a 2.5" exhaust right through to a super cat muffler. sounds awesome. power increase wasn't neck breaking but better. but had way better sound and in gear acceleration.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
×
×
  • Create New...