Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Proof is in the pudding. But still dubious of the 300-400% claim. Can someone point me in the direction of a good article on this?

My understanding from the old Iron Carbon diagram has always been strength-Ductility-toughness vs hardness is greatly dependent on the rates of heating and cooling etc and grain size and type. With cryo freezing you are not changing the grain structure type/composition, rather just refining the grain structure by making it slightly smaller and more uniform. So you are not increasing the UTS etc of the component, but stress relieving it so that it wont fail at its weakest point.

At work ATM, will post up excerpt from textbook tomorrow. But yeah basically what I got from it was that you're not actually make the gears any stronger.

Please don't get confused here... strength and hardness are two different properties. Hardness will most likely increase as a result of cryogenic treatment due to the formation of martensitic grain structure in the steel. With increased hardness the material wll become more brittle.

But this is just piss in the wind, I doubt anyone knows what steel the gears are exactly or if anyone has examined the grain structure before and after to know whether it has actually made a difference.

Please don't get confused here... strength and hardness are two different properties. Hardness will most likely increase as a result of cryogenic treatment due to the formation of martensitic grain structure in the steel. With increased hardness the material wll become more brittle.

But this is just piss in the wind, I doubt anyone knows what steel the gears are exactly or if anyone has examined the grain structure before and after to know whether it has actually made a difference.

Ring Heat Treatment Australia. Their exact words were: 'improves the strength of the metal by 300-400%'. This certainly does not mean you are wrong, just relaying what they said as I am definitely no expert

They do the same thing to ambulance rotors and get more than double the life out of them. Not sure about the formation of martensitic grain structure but I know for a fact the gearboxes we have done are definitely stronger, which is the point.

I wonder with the ambulance rotors if that affects braking power?

I was always under the assumption that softer rotors provide better braking. With ambulances though, it is only designed for street conditions so that would be ideal for longevity.

OK I have finally made it to the 400 kw thread.

Car running rb26 block and -5's

Car made on 19psi 420rwks - I'm wrapped :D

Massive thanks to Trent & Cat from Chequered tuning who tuned the car over the weekend (wouldn't go anywhere else)

Trent tuned a felxi fuel set up on my Autronic

Also a huge thanks to Tas (Power Glide GTR) for getting the car to where it is - car has turned out mint mate :)

This is a hub result, yeah?

yeah, but my car has read 350'ish awkw on 98 at Chasers 4WD dyno and 356rwkw on 98 at Trent's dyno. I'm due for a service and what-not, so i'll try and can get a Racepace one done as well.

For Melbourne, Trent's dyno is inline with all other big shops

i was under the impression it was 20psi

doesn't sound that far fetched... i got 400rwkw on 256 cams at 21psi - this car has bigger cams would seem reasonable i guess

It's E85 as well remember :)

420kw on 19psi is.....questionable.

Your kidding right !!

I dont jump in on these threads much but I've seen plenty of cars in Japan running 1.3 bar and pushing well over 400kw.

I know of a few floating around oz as well.

You dont need big boost to make response and power, just a well built motor top to bottom.

well if its a hub dyno then yea its goin to read higher,

mine made 375rwkw on a chasis dyno, on gate spring pressure which was around 18 psi

cam gear set on 0 and on Pump gas

LIke Marcus said, everything needs to be set up correctly.... EVERYTHING!

and everyone else has missed the fact the Trent's dyno DOESN'T read higher than other dyno's in melb :rolleyes:

It made 370rwkw on 98, which is about what you'd expect for 98 for '5s RB26 - it's around what the RP cars make on 98, Chasers cars make on 98 etc. If an RP car came up in a thread saying they made 370rwkw with -5's on a 98, no one would blink an eye and think it's just par for the course.

Hub dynos read higher if the operator wants them to read higher

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
×
×
  • Create New...