Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think I found the solution, they have a fitting similar in a way to what you've said. I've been meaning to swing by MSCN for the last few days but haven't had the time.

Hows your R34 build? Texi ready? (secretly hoping, I love watching you belt the shit out of the courses at Texi haha)

thats good to hear.

going slowly, finally got the oil pump last week and now trying to figure out how I'm going to do the external feed to it and keep the aircon. otherwise all thats left after that is the harmonic balancer, electric oil pump and the braided lines for turbos,breathers,pump and cooler. still a ways off yet

hahaha yeah texi, not this one unfortunately but was going to PM you about maybe helping out, but won;t know till closer to the day. wanting on a answer about a job in Gladstone

Mates 34 gtr

2.7 litre nitto motor

T51r kai

Vipec ecu

All the support goodies

600rwkw on E85

Granted its not anything as good as r35, I know this first hand haha

At what boost was this? Ill guess over 30psi?

Yep, AMS Alpha 12 kit. Minimum boost possible is 23psi. In the states they have the same kit running 30+ psi and they're pushing out around 970Kw at the wheels, crazy stuff.

out of interest and something I've always wanted to find out, what power level can the r35 take before it starts to break things and become unreliable?

I know the answer the answer is reliant on the mechanical sympathy u have for the car, surely there is a happy medium though :)

i remember reading somewhere people were finding 600-650hp were pushing the limit of the standard rods? but that probably relates to motorsport applications, rather than street cars i would assume.

i remember reading somewhere people were finding 600-650hp were pushing the limit of the standard rods? but that probably relates to motorsport applications, rather than street cars i would assume.

not much different than rb rods?

i remember reading somewhere people were finding 600-650hp were pushing the limit of the standard rods? but that probably relates to motorsport applications, rather than street cars i would assume.

With all due respect though, would you run 600cc injectors in your 650hp car just because they will probably 'be ok'?

Everything will suffer mechanical failure due to stresses eventually. There is no point putting a limit on them because at the price of a set of Spool rods, it's not even worth discussing their limit

not much different than rb rods?

:huh: given GTR rods have been proven to hold more, one would say yes - but end of the day who knows.

This is the 400rwkw thread, not the "what is the weakest part of a R35" thread.

Gtr rods are strong yes in rb's, I agree

Yes r35 is off topic but it sure qualifies in the over 400kw thread

GTR rods are strong. No the rod bolts aren't. For the $100 changeover in price it's stupid to even consider staying standard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...