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Time for updates, Its been a bit of a journey,

Ran the garret 37/88 at just under 600 hp for a while but still felt it should have made more.

Did a refresh on the engine and added a crank trigger assembly plus a crg manifold and a precision 64/66.

ran it to 600 hp on the dyno and the turbo siezed solid. Not happy jan.

Junked the precision and went with an MTA 900. Its a whole new world.

we now sit at 680 hp on 30 lb at 7200 rpm

. thats enough for now but its by no means near its limit.

at 30 lb the MTA is making 80 hp more than the precision at the same boost and has a much fatter curve.

Will post both graphs later.

Oh... That was you! The results were way low, if the Precision crapped out I wonder if it was playing up or there was some other issue the whole time.... Awesome that you have it sorted now, and all is well, but the performance difference between those turbos seems unlikely if both were performing properly - albeit very very impressive if that is a realistic indication of how that turbo goes against a healthy 6466!

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

For those of you with 400kw atw in a GTR, do you have traction issues when coming onto boost in 2nd gear?

My R32 GTR at the moment is spinning from 4000rpm to redline in second under acceleration and doesn't grip until I have changed to third.

Is this normal or does my 4WD system need looking at?

EDIT: I should mention that tyres are AD08R 255/40/17 with 70% tread on them

Edited by Chris32R

Haven't got a front LSD, just standard open centre in there atm. I have a carbon 1.5 way LSD waiting to go in..

The rears just spin up really quickly and it feels like the fronts come in and try to pull the car along. I don't have a 4WD controller either, just using the standard system.

I'd be interested to know if others with similar power have the same problem or whether they get traction all the way through 2nd gear.

Already done Marko. Have completely flushed and bled out the Attesa system in the car and put new transfer case fluid in and still no joy.

I did notice that when trying to bleed the hydraulic system with the electrical connector unplugged to put the pump in bleed mode, the fluid was very slow to come out of the bleeder screw. This leads me to think that the pump isn't working as it should

Edited by Chris32R
  • Like 1

I got my ATS carbon 1.5 way through Jesse Streeter in Japan. It wasn't cheap though. I went with carbon to try and keep the driveability nice whilst low speed cornering.

I believe quite a few members have gone with the Quaife front diff and are very happy with their performance.

Pretty sure these can be bought for a reasonable price from justjap.

Whereabouts did you get your 1.5 way centre for the front diff?

I've got the engine out at the moment and I'm definitely thinking of changing the diff before re-installing the engine

One of the best mods you can do to a GTR IF you like to get on the power early in a corner.

  • 1 month later...

I suppose I can finally be part of this club

Tomei Advanced spec RB26 Crate Engine

GT2860R-5 Turbos

Mines dump pipes (ver II)

Nismo Plenum

1,000cc injectors

Midori Ti Front Pipes (80mm)

Venom 5in body HiFlow Cat

Tomei 3.5 Expreme Ti Catback exhaust system

Fuel System - two Bosch 044 pumps plumbed to dual 044 surge tank with walbro 450 as lift pump

E-Flex Tune

Haltech Platinum Pro ECU

IMG_2043_zps9ad9d9dc.jpg

450rwkw @ 27psi

  • Like 1

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    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
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