Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For it to be closed loop it will need a signal input from the camshaft position sensor that you will need to install. You can't just use RPM as an input for closed loop as it's unrelated to what you are adjusting

I thought he was talking about open loop control, but yes if closed loop you obviously need an input as well.

We are looking into an rpm box for you guys.

I've been using the msd rpm switch for a while now... sturdy bit of gear.

I'm suuuper keen to get a hold of 25 VCT conversion parts and camshaft from you once it's all sorted. I'm suprised no one has developed it yet???

Do greddy still make the adjustable cam sprockets for the 25 vct cam gear?

sign me up-

Cheers

Justin

I've been using the msd rpm switch for a while now... sturdy bit of gear.

Do greddy still make the adjustable cam sprockets for the 25 vct cam gear?

I'll look into that thanks.

The factory RB25 inlet gear is adjustable....it's just on the back of the gear :(

I have seen someone do a bolt configuration through the gear so it was adjustable from the front.

The MSD RPM switch looks like it only turns something on at a specific RPM? We need to turn it off again at a certain RPM so that means it would need to be programmable

Look for a MSD RPM window switch, a RPM Switch is on... A window switch is on and then off :)

I'm just using a on switch mind you, works fine

Look for a MSD RPM window switch, a RPM Switch is on... A window switch is on and then off :)

I'm just using a on switch mind you, works fine

Thanks.

They seem to be what we were looking for. And only about $150 so also the right price.

what intercooler, are you running??

His car has the basc 70mm ARC GTR intercooler. They're a good bit of gear. Light, good flow and good cooling. They are actually lighter than a stock GTR intercooler!

i was pointing more at v8 vvt that run 4 cam sensors

like the bmw's and soon to be nissan v8's

run them as pairs in/in ex/ex not often you want different valve timing event between left and right banks.

Thanks.

They seem to be what we were looking for. And only about $150 so also the right price.

This is what I use:

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/RPM/Timing_Controls/RPM_Controls/8969_-_Digital_RPM_Window_Switch.aspx

Cheers :cheers:

J

Woudn't trust a eboost to switch anything on, they are a POS at the best of times

cheers

darren

Mines works great, what is the issue you have with them?

Controls boost well, window switch works great, lots of people recommend them?

Mines works great, what is the issue you have with them?

Controls boost well, window switch works great, lots of people recommend them?

I've never had problems with the unit or the solenoids on, only the people who wire them in incorrectly. I'd say most people's grief would be caused by the same thing

Mines works great, what is the issue you have with them?

Controls boost well, window switch works great, lots of people recommend them?

They have a bad habit of just locking up , outputs stop working at same time and you have to send them back and get them updated.Eboost 1 and 2 do it. ... I am not the only

one who had that problem, a mate had the same problem , and if you look around, a lot of the sport compact racers have had the same problem

Its actually quite common and a lot of workshops won't use them for that reason, as i found out after mine f**ked up.

Not good when its hooked up to your water injection solenoid that for sure

I wound't buy a second handy of ebay, thats for sure!

When it worked it did do a awesome job of boost control, funnily enough mine got stolen out of my car when some work was getting done to it, before i had a chance

to get it updated, hopefully it blows the thiefs car up ..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

i've got 2530's, which are almost identical, and with baby cams still managed 400rwkw with E85, only 21psi as well - most people run 260 cams, and prob more around 24psi is the pistons/everything else can take it, you'll walk in the 400 with -5's :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...