Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1991 Aussie Lexus LS400 (early series 2)

- 306,000km

- 190kw 1uze-fe

- Auto

- Has full service history from new until 2007, since then I have changed oil/filters regularly

- Electric seats with memory, electric windows, mirrors

- Full climate control with aircon working well

- Cruise control

- Economy is pretty good for an 8cyl. I average around 11L/100km.

Recently replaced:

* Front rotors with slotted DBA

* New front pads

* New shocks all round

All gizmos, etc still work fine, auto still shifts very smoothly. Has been my daily driver for near 2 years now and never skipped a beat. Very reliable, and is a great car to drive - feels much newer than it is.

The bad: The stereo decided to pack it in the other week, seems to be the factory amp. Also climate control display fogged up which is a standard LS400 thing -- you can get replacement screen on ebay for $160

Body is completely rust free, and still paint very good for age. Seems to have been kept undercover most of its life. Has done a few km, but the 1uzfe has been known to do 500,000km. Engine seems pretty healthy and should give many more kilometers, halfcut engines are cheap anyhow if you did ever need to slot another engine in... or you could always do a 1jz or 2jz for kicks.

Will sell with rego+safety cert. Have yet to obtain safety certificate (needs 4x new tyres), but will do so upon sale..

$5500 - Goldcoast (NO SWAPS)

img_2282.jpg

img_2257.jpg

img_2262.jpg

img_2264.jpg

img_2256.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251947-ls400-goldcoast-5500/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Price drop to $5200 (will be listed for more when it goes on carsales soon).

Just had fitted 4x new Goodyear tyres, and paid another 6 months rego. So total $800 of extras.. for cheaper.

I've also managed to get the stereo working again.

Gday,

Would you be interested in selling anything seperate / exchange.

Your front seats appear to have slightly better leather then mine, would you be interested in swapping seats plus cash your way?

Also interested in the front bumper extension (black plastic lip) if your willing to sell please let me know.

[email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
×
×
  • Create New...