Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello there,

rb26 garrett -5's, with all the other bits and pieces

would anyone like to help me out with advice on when it is a good time to change the ol' cams,

i have about 320AWKW at 18lbs, going to wind boost to about 20lbs for a bit, and was thinking the next step would be cams? if so what is the pick of the bunch for low down power/torque? i see poncams seem to be one of the fav choices,

what roughly AWKW does it make sense to upgade?

thanks for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/
Share on other sites

Dont think you need them at that power level. Cars with 400AWKW seem to have them done.

yeah have read on this forum about not needing to touch them to around that power, but some others say they are a great updrade for low down power?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4360538
Share on other sites

yeah have read on this forum about not needing to touch them to around that power, but some others say they are a great updrade for low down power?

For that power and stock rev limit cams are a waste of $$ and will do nothing for low down power.

Cam gears on stockers works well though...ive had great results with them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4360558
Share on other sites

For that power and stock rev limit cams are a waste of $$ and will do nothing for low down power.

Cam gears on stockers works well though...ive had great results with them.

The cam gears alone are great value. Even on stock turbos.

I understand the standard cams have a following with some reputable tuners. There are also a number of people who have upgraded and found better power delivery.

Whether it's the -5's or even stock turbos, taking the tuner as your guide is the best bet. If they are sure of the stock cam optimum setup then go with that and you get the best value.

Personally, on the unported head standard motor, I would take the pepsi challenge any day to get more power everywhere over well adjusted stock cams with a set of tomei poncams. However it took quite a bit of fiddling on the dyno last time to get the best out of them (mates rates dyno though).

I'll be giving the tomei cam upgrade a go again shortly and this time I will get the settings down for others to draw from.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4360623
Share on other sites

hmmm, was going to get the boost turned up to 20lbs and see how that feels (on standard internal motor, rev limit 7500, have a profect b so will also run 15lbs) am a lil bored on 320 AWKW, dont know how much power 20lbs will produce, but im sure more then enough for me, then when motor gets tired go forged rebuild but maybe just leave the cams?

ps. sorry dont know what cams are dialled too

Edited by donkey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4360641
Share on other sites

The cam gears alone are great value. Even on stock turbos.

I understand the standard cams have a following with some reputable tuners. There are also a number of people who have upgraded and found better power delivery.

Whether it's the -5's or even stock turbos, taking the tuner as your guide is the best bet. If they are sure of the stock cam optimum setup then go with that and you get the best value.

Personally, on the unported head standard motor, I would take the pepsi challenge any day to get more power everywhere over well adjusted stock cams with a set of tomei poncams. However it took quite a bit of fiddling on the dyno last time to get the best out of them (mates rates dyno though).

I'll be giving the tomei cam upgrade a go again shortly and this time I will get the settings down for others to draw from.

I have actually witnessed in person on two cars that have removed poncams ONLY and lost only a couple of top-end KW but gained everywhere else in the rev range by refitting and dialing in stockers. Both cars had two different low mount turbo combinations...but to help your point i dont believe that the poncams were dialed into optimum position (well lets just say they werent set where i would run them).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4360650
Share on other sites

i think i will just stick with the standard cams, really dont want to through away thousands of dollars for not much gain, im looking for torque not massive KW's

again...where are the vernier gears set to at the moment?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4360694
Share on other sites

I have actually witnessed in person on two cars that have removed poncams ONLY and lost only a couple of top-end KW but gained everywhere else in the rev range by refitting and dialing in stockers. Both cars had two different low mount turbo combinations...but to help your point i dont believe that the poncams were dialed into optimum position (well lets just say they werent set where i would run them).

Yeah I've heard of a few more as well that have talked about poncams not getting the width of power like that.

I wonder if it is to do with the setting of the cams as you mention or if there is also some overcamming / profile mismatch going on if these examples are ones being ported /rebuilt motors . I think regardless that the off the shelf limitations we have with the RB's puts all engine setups at some sort of compromise. We don't have access to the variety of profiles or custom grind's other motors have. It is possible that the off the shelf Tomei's are optimised for stock head dynamics.

I've done the stocker dial in also and I'm a big fan of it as a great budget mod, you pick up power everywhere and the settings are pretty well established for the average motor.

The experience I had with the Tomei units however, made me a convert. I gained more power from as low as 3,000 rpm up. From 3,000rpm onwards I had a better power band than the best stock cam cam gear adjusted car dyno I've seen and by alot down low. My brother who is a big block hemi fan , I let drive the car before and after, was shocked by the pull the car had from the cams final setup, such that he commented he may have to buy a GTR. :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4360697
Share on other sites

Yeah I've heard of a few more as well that have talked about poncams not getting the width of power like that.

I wonder if it is to do with the setting of the cams as you mention or if there is also some overcamming / profile mismatch going on if these examples are ones being ported /rebuilt motors . I think regardless that the off the shelf limitations we have with the RB's puts all engine setups at some sort of compromise. We don't have access to the variety of profiles or custom grind's other motors have. It is possible that the off the shelf Tomei's are optimised for stock head dynamics.

I've done the stocker dial in also and I'm a big fan of it as a great budget mod, you pick up power everywhere and the settings are pretty well established for the average motor.

The experience I had with the Tomei units however, made me a convert. I gained more power from as low as 3,000 rpm up. From 3,000rpm onwards I had a better power band than the best stock cam cam gear adjusted car dyno I've seen and by alot down low. My brother who is a big block hemi fan , I let drive the car before and after, was shocked by the pull the car had from the cams final setup, such that he commented he may have to buy a GTR. :down:

how far did you retard the exhaust cam?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4360705
Share on other sites

thats a co-incidence

Ah you have tried this setting too?

I'm not 100% that's the setting I wound up with but, it was written down on a bit of paper that I was using for notes on the car at the dyno.

The cams were R34 units in an R32 as well, with my rather dodgy looking standard R32 CAS modification :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4363296
Share on other sites

Ah you have tried this setting too?

I'm not 100% that's the setting I wound up with but, it was written down on a bit of paper that I was using for notes on the car at the dyno.

The cams were R34 units in an R32 as well, with my rather dodgy looking standard R32 CAS modification :P

Yeah i found that stockers worked the best there with overall gains...yes everywhere!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252008-rb26-question/#findComment-4363306
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...