Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I asked this question a while back....as a prior to getting a jap-spec cat....... :rolleyes:

the sensor is supposed to detect if there is a blockage in the cat - such as excessive carbon build up in the cat pores - which would stop it flowing and cause a build up of heat.

It such situations (i.e. - when the cat light comes on) the computer goes into a limp mode to help you get to the next garage.

if your cat light is coming on, it's probably either because your cat is rooted, or because welding the sensor has fuXXed it.

I suggest you look into it either way, as your car will be running well below par.

Sorry guys, but you are both WRONG.. :P

the EGT sensor ISN'T connected to the ECU in ANY way...

There is no way it can illuminate the light on your dash and cause your car to go into "limp mode". The EGT has a switching module which is earthed and a powered by a positive switched ignition feed. This module illuminates the light on the dash which is also earthed. The module is set to illuminate the light on your dash at around 850 degrees celcius...

On some more sophisticated ECU used in late model BMW's, Mercedes, etc, etc this is the case, but the skylines only take refenences from sensors, such as CAS, AFM, WATER TEMP, AIR TEMP, KNOCK, VSS, O2 & TPS in their Fuel, Ignition, Timing maps.

The light illuminating for no apparent reason, (all tuning aspects have been checked and OK) would either be a faulty EGT, module or a short circuit somewhere.

My R32 owners manual shows that the egt signal is connected to pin 32 of the ecu - but its only to the check lamp and there are no ecu functions that are controlled.

The last time we covered this someone mentioned that on the R33's the ecu checks if the sensor is connected otherwise it will enter limp mode (but the actual signal isn't used by the ecu).

when i got my car the temp sensor was welded to the cat, so when i changed my cat to a hiflow one, the exhaust guy cut it, and this made the light on the dash stay on all the time. if i left my car idling for longer than 2 minutes or something the engine would switch itself off. i then got a new sensor and screwed it into my new cat, light off, and all good.

It appears that a reproduced circuit diagram i have got of the R32's shows that the EGT module is ONLY connected to the warning light.

hmm,

Browny's comment has prompted me to have a look at a genuine Nissan R32 workshop manual and the EGT module has an output which Tee's into both the warning light and pin 32 of the ECU.

I was puzzled for awhile there, and i stand corrected.

As for a "limp mode"? I still believe that there is no such thing on the R32's, as there is no diagnostic for this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...