Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Series 2 you mean?

There is no gearbox other than the RE5 that bolts up to our orphan, I need to swap the sump so the bolts line up on the 350x box, and the starter fits. There is a lot of mechanical work before I even get to the electronic side. :/

The 350S was a series one car...

Sounds like a lot of work. Don't envy you. Starter gets moved to the other side, right?

3 times what I spent on the 350z box though. To fit the R34 gtr box you would either need the floor pan modified extensively and a new gearbox support made, or the transfer case would need to be spaced out 200mm or so off the back of the box.

Add that to the adapter required for RB to VQ, and buying a new twin plate Nismo clutch... I just can't afford it. :/

Floor pan mods are fairly straight forward, but tricky when you have to remove seats, carpet, sound deadener, looms, and then fit them all back...

Gearbox support is fairly straight forward, as a hybrid can be made between the GTR/Stagea

Custom Tailshaft required ($$$)

Gearbox Adapter would be a PITA to make from scratch, but can be bought for $,$$$...

You would have to use the GTR drive shaft to the stag diff (or get a custom one made)

Would take a fair bit of time and dollars including the purchase of the box itself.

Not to mention getting the ATTESSA clutch oil pump and all the other stuff working.

Why not Rwd ?

Massage the guards to fit some wider rubber

350z box and id say twin turbs if it has created more space presto

The rear guards will actually take quite large rubber; it has always been the limitations in the front (to keep ATTESSA happy) that have dictated the rear tyre sizes.

IIRC, several years ago, whilst auditioning rims; bbenny had 19x10.5s under the rear of his.

The only reason they didn't stay, was the issues with the ATTESSA going bezerk due to rolling dia differences with the front 19x9's & mismatched tyres.

Daleo 10.5" rear bags....

Interesting...

Well then

Apart from having total control being manual.transmission.

Myself the idea of a motec harnessing the full potential of the vq25det without that killjoy auto tranny ecu would prove irresistible.

Want to buy my 350z box and Nismo twin plate coppermix clutch now Toby? :P

I will get around to it eventually, one day when I am bored. Still searching for manual V35 interior parts... I am contemplating just using the 350z console and adapting the handbrake to work. Not sure what it would look like though.

I've always thought if I decide to heavily modify my PNM35 I'd just go RWD and 350Z manual box, but you really have to weigh up the cost of getting the car to a state you're happy with in terms of fit and finish vs the cost of sourcing and bringing in an Autech 350S. I guess you guys in Aussie have to worry about complaince though so it's probably not an option for you.

The nice Autechs fetch a tidy price. And your stuck with the shitty dash, not our nice one.

The cheaper ones are flogged out, I think its much better getting a S2 and converting. Even better if you have a RWD S2 car.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
    • Rear turbo is leaky, most likely at the oil drain. From what I could see with my boroscope it seemed to have seeped out at the very top of that return hose. Is it possible that the oil climbs up that hose to then leak out? Yup, coolant leak on the hot side of the engine, only noticed after seeing clear rusty residue in the block right from the turbo oil feed downwards to the pan, and red droplets hanging from the pan. No clear sign yet from where it comes, and most of the lines there are hardlines right? Last year, seeing those red drops, I thought it was power steering, will be glad if that is not leaky at least. Another leaking hose I found by chance is the lower of the two heater core hoses coming from the firewall to the back of the head. That one is not too bad to get to if I have to replace.
    • I think for response I'm already kind of out there no? he -5s are not the best pick for that as the Internet tells me. Maybe I should switch to -7s while I still can? Though that almost definitely warrants an engine pull along with the other issues I have.
×
×
  • Create New...