Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

also factor in the price of interior trim to suit the new handbrake location, plus the pedal box from a Z33/V35. i guess only the clutch is needed + master and slave cylinders and relevant lines (braided would be easy) and installation of said items. there MIGHT not be a hole in the firewall where the clutch master would sit.

better pics of the xfer case on the m35 auto? It looks like a very good match to the R32/33/34 4wd setup. does someone have a 32/33/34 intermediate shaft they can stick into an m35 xfer case?

I tend to think the 32/33/34 box is the way to go, the interfaces are flywheel/clutch/input shaft (do-able), tailshaft (do-able) and intermediate shaft (do-able). I'd be surprised if the d22 navara stuff fits, they would have a very different front diff setup

better pics of the xfer case on the m35 auto? It looks like a very good match to the R32/33/34 4wd setup. does someone have a 32/33/34 intermediate shaft they can stick into an m35 xfer case?

I tend to think the 32/33/34 box is the way to go, the interfaces are flywheel/clutch/input shaft (do-able), tailshaft (do-able) and intermediate shaft (do-able). I'd be surprised if the d22 navara stuff fits, they would have a very different front diff setup

You make a good point Duncan....might have to climb under one and check it out.

The R32/33/34 is pretty do able....only hold up is the bell housing....hence the reasoning behind the Navara scenario.

Leave it Auto, get a valve body upgrade from the states for 180usd, do whatever else needs doing in the auto and get that computer shit going and change the shift times if its possible.

how is that computer tune business going at sas? or wherever it is at now..

Leave it Auto, get a valve body upgrade from the states for 180usd, do whatever else needs doing in the auto and get that computer shit going and change the shift times if its possible.

how is that computer tune business going at sas? or wherever it is at now..

I already have a built box, still cant handle the power I want to run through it.

The ecu remap wont speed up the shifts, they happen instantly with the valve body upgrade, the issue is the throttle which closes during shifts and wont reopen for a bit, even though its in gear. If the SAS remap fixes that, a lot of people will be happy, im going Japanese reflash when I find a spare ecu.

Not all the time, just seems to be on initial application of throttle. If I boot it, at any speed, it takes a while to power on but once it is, shifts are instant and hard. Note that this only seems to happen under 3000 revs.

The damn ecu throttle lag I have been complaining about guys, it isnt that noticeable when stock as it gives a nice acceleration curve, but once powered up its a pain in the arse. Somebody lend me an ecu to send over, please? :)

I notice the throttle lag on the stock car i have.. its kinda annoying really as when you want to boot it. you have to think ahead of everything to do it..

The guys in the states with the same box dont seem to have issues with power? could it be something more m35 car related??

as for the valve upgrade.. it looks good. pretty cheap from the states too. and doesnt look too hard to fit at all. i might look at that to get the shift times a bit better since its only 180usd or there abouts.

I notice the throttle lag on the stock car i have.. its kinda annoying really as when you want to boot it. you have to think ahead of everything to do it..

The guys in the states with the same box dont seem to have issues with power? could it be something more m35 car related??

as for the valve upgrade.. it looks good. pretty cheap from the states too. and doesnt look too hard to fit at all. i might look at that to get the shift times a bit better since its only 180usd or there abouts.

you got the link for it?

Has anyone priced up buying a 2004-2005 manual stagea front cut from a importer?

Might cost up to $5K

Sell off the engine for $2-3K and use the rest

Is it that simple?

Reading the "modify auto posts" sounds like a bandaid fix for a problem that is still going to remain?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...