Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm after some tough Jap rims in good condition. With the way the Yen is at the moment its been a nightmare trying to find suitable wheels in the sizes i'm after for a good price. I need to find a set asap

Sizes i'm after is 17x9 (front) and 17X10 (rear). 18's are also fine depending on price and 1?x9.5 and 1?x10.5 will also be considered.

Wanting something along the lines of TE-37's, VSK-f's, GT-C's, GT-N, SSR Professors, SA-70TT's, TC-105N, etc...

Would prefer tyres, although not necessary...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252126-tough-jap-wheels-wanted/
Share on other sites

^^^ The wheels are going on a stock bodied Silvia, so no way of those fitting unless i run copious amounts of negative camber, which i don't want to do!

Thanks anyway... :(

veilside andrews on NS. really love the rims and was gona buy them myself but got meisters instead. jump on NS and go on the wheels for sale thread. 17x9 fronts and 17x10 rears.

Yeah, i saw Locky's wheels on N.S.com a while ago, but they are ghey offsets and i'll have to use spacers.

Hmm, i tried to edit the original post to include the offsets i'm after but i could only edit this post? WTF?

Anyway, i'm after +0 for the front and +12 for the rear, if the fronts are 1?x9.5 around the +12 - +18 offsets...

Edited by ~Hypnotik~

yeh true i guess about the offsets if you want gansta jap tuffness but 10" on the rears would be kinda pushing the limit.

theres some cr kais on ns aswell 17x9.5 +20 all round. pretty sure those would scrub on stock bodied silvia if lowered and 225s aren't used lol.

yeh true i guess about the offsets if you want gansta jap tuffness but 10" on the rears would be kinda pushing the limit.

theres some cr kais on ns aswell 17x9.5 +20 all round. pretty sure those would scrub on stock bodied silvia if lowered and 225s aren't used lol.

I say stock bodied as in metal guards and not fibreglass wide body, but they will be lipped and flared. With a suitable flare and a 235 tire, even with the planned -0.5 to -1.0 camber i'll be running a 10" wheel will be fine. It's going to be tough as f**k, thats why i'm being fairly picky about wheels and want something thats fairly recent and not too old, i want everything to be just right!

Hey man I got a couple fo sets available

TE37s

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/18...70#entry4341270

and

AVS Wheels (very tough)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Av...04#entry4344504

Have sent you a PM too.

Get back to me ASAP

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saruthewhite hasn鈥檛 been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
    • Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.
    • Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's  POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends.  The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR.   Hope this helps!
  • Create New...