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Losing Revs While Ideling...

SKYNET

By SKYNET,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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SKYNET Mentor

SKYNET

Posted
Posted

My stock standard rb25-det runs smoothly until after about 10 minutes it starts to lose revs & the car shudders randomly-but only while its ideling

it doesn't stall either but feels like its going to

i've been running it on BP ulitimate-added injector cleaning fluid to fuel & cleaned the airflow meter but no luck

has anyone else had a this problem before?

any advice will be appreciated

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BIT SUS Mentor

BIT SUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
My stock standard rb25-det runs smoothly until after about 10 minutes it starts to lose revs & the car shudders randomly-but only while its ideling

it doesn't stall either but feels like its going to

i've been running it on BP ulitimate-added injector cleaning fluid to fuel & cleaned the airflow meter but no luck

has anyone else had a this problem before?

any advice will be appreciated

what RPM does the car normally idle at? because i know after about 10mins, the revs drop on my stag, im thinking its some sort of automatic warm up program.

does turning the Aircon on bump up the revs and make it idle smoother?

Edited by BIT SUS
kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

As soon as its warm (around 10 ish or so minutes) in comes out of Cold start. this is where it revs higher to help it warm up and stop it from stalling ect.

Should idle with no accessories on at about 700rpm

so is it just missing on idle?

SKYNET Mentor

SKYNET

Posted
  • Author
Posted
As soon as its warm (around 10 ish or so minutes) in comes out of Cold start. this is where it revs higher to help it warm up and stop it from stalling ect.

Should idle with no accessories on at about 700rpm

so is it just missing on idle?

it idles at about 1000rpm for about 10 mins then drops to 700rpm

runs smooth as above idle speed

my mechanic suggested it could be either a faulty airflow meter or

faulty/leaking vacuum hose/s [it could be 1 of a 100 different things unfortunately]

gonna to blast out the air-idel motor with carby cleaner asap & replace sparkplugs too

SKYNET Mentor

SKYNET

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i did have a go at cleaning the AAC(Auxiliary Air Control)valve last week but didnt completely remove it so it wasnt done thoughly

thanks for the link[to removing it,etc]

ill give it another go

PS-carby cleaner smells good-kinda sweet :P

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

lol @ smell :D

heres an oddball:

- replace spark plugs but it'll cost ya, $20 NGK BCPRE6 .8m copper vgruve

- more carby cleaner, just for the smell

- hitemp Selleys 401 industrial strength silicone sealant; $15 incl corking gun from bunnings, and swathe a lather of silicone stinkyness ALL over your coilpacks.

- use carby cleaner a little more on the AFM just for old times sake

- drive for 10mins, check base idle, use base idle screw for slight positive adjustment

this ^^ should help, unless you have already done it, or are using Splitfires

mine idles at 400 ? nice and low. however, with the headwork it might be different..... waiting, waiting.

SO need my stag back !! :(

SKYNET Mentor

SKYNET

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks to everyone for their help & advice

i've already sprayed the AFM with "mass air flow-sensor cleaner"

[got it from supacheap $20]

apparently u can use carby cleaner instead

ill get stuck into next weekend as the cars not being used atm

been drivin the neanderthol toyota work van during the week :)

Neejay Explorer

Neejay

Posted
Posted

Wow! My RB25 is doing the EXACT same thing! I'm going to try cleaning the AAC valve tomorrow and doing an idle adjustment. I'm also going to check the timing.

Please update if you figure out the problem!

Aznbongsta Community Regular

Aznbongsta

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone. I drive a non turbo R34 Skyline with the RB25DE and its AUTO

I also have some idling issues.

When in parking, it idles around 900rpm but with my windows closed already but just using my switch to make them close the idle slowly drops to like 300-400rpm and feel like it wants to stall then it goes back up agian

Same with when i have the air con running and at stop at the red light with my foot on the brake, rev will be like 700rpm then drop alittle then goes back to normal again.

I changed to a new battery hoping it will solve it but it didn't.

I needed a new battery newaiz, it was like the original one since 1998. hahaha

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted
Hi everyone. I drive a non turbo R34 Skyline with the RB25DE and its AUTO

I also have some idling issues.

When in parking, it idles around 900rpm but with my windows closed already but just using my switch to make them close the idle slowly drops to like 300-400rpm and feel like it wants to stall then it goes back up agian

Same with when i have the air con running and at stop at the red light with my foot on the brake, rev will be like 700rpm then drop alittle then goes back to normal again.

I changed to a new battery hoping it will solve it but it didn't.

I needed a new battery newaiz, it was like the original one since 1998. hahaha

Sounds like your issue could be the alternator...

  • 2 weeks later...
SKYNET Mentor

SKYNET

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Problem solved-changed the sparkplugs :P

also thoughly cleaned out AAC valve on the same day but i think it was the old plugs causin the problem

two of em were lookin pretty haggard with a yellowish buildup of crap around em

now she's runnin smoothly again :)

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Had I seen your thread earlier, I would have suggested the plugs. The crap that was fitted to my C34 for compliance (Autolites) made my car start & idle slow (occasionally stalling just after startup), and the idle would also sometimes drop off when slowing to a stop. I cleaned the AAC (which was spotless) without improvement. Changing the plugs to good-ol NGK (I spent up big & got the platinum - copper plugs weren't on the list where I bought them from at the time) fixed the problem 100% and it hasn't misbehaved in the 4 years since.

Neejay Explorer

Neejay

Posted
Posted
Had I seen your thread earlier, I would have suggested the plugs. The crap that was fitted to my C34 for compliance (Autolites) made my car start & idle slow (occasionally stalling just after startup), and the idle would also sometimes drop off when slowing to a stop. I cleaned the AAC (which was spotless) without improvement. Changing the plugs to good-ol NGK (I spent up big & got the platinum - copper plugs weren't on the list where I bought them from at the time) fixed the problem 100% and it hasn't misbehaved in the 4 years since.

That's pretty much what happens with mine. I'm using NGK bcpr6es-11 gapped down to .8mm What plugs are you using?

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

NGK Laser Platinum PFR5G-11

The only other thing I changed at the same time as fitting the new plugs was the O2 sensor - it was confirmed as being stuffed by the 12:1 idle mixture... That might be worth a look too.

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