Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Probably a question raised in here a few times but looking for a quick and possibly obvious answer...

Basically after looking over a lot of other rb20 dyno figures on the results thread it occured to me that I'm even worse off in the lag department than other rb20 owners..

Feel free to look at my dyno printout in the other thread but in a nut shell im only putting out 80wkw or so at 4000rpm then makes all its power before 6000rpm.. (this was on a hub dyno aswell so could well be lower on a roller dyno)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...&start=225#

Its increadibly laggy with the new 3'' exhaust and previoulsy with the 2.5'' exhaust was not much different. I wanna get some power down early in the rev range nothing outragous just enough to get that turbo spooling a little quicker because 4000rpm is quite righ rpm for only 80kw.

Is messing around with engine internals my only option from here? I love the rb20's so dont wanna go out and buy an rb25 just yet..

Your thoughts anyone?

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252140-rb20-lag-is-there-a-fix/
Share on other sites

Wow, thats a pretty bad torque spread. I am guessing you still have rev limit set to about 7-7500rpm..... if so that means you'll only be getting about 1500rpm at full power.

There might be some restriction in there if the turbo manifold isn't the best quality...

No matter what you do when you push over 200rwkw you'll always lose low end torque/power but this case seems a little much. See if you can get your tune sorted and then maybe try some cams to open it up and let it breathe a bit. if you rebuild the engine with forgies then if you leave it standard bore and stroke you won't make it more torquey/powerful, it will just make it more durable

i have scratched the issue of exhaust collection being a potential problem on our kiwi forums here:

post #41 has a pic there

http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...7809&page=2

then on the next page it shows possible alternatives but weather this will fix the lag issues im not sure.. your thoughts??

Car has just had a fresh hub dyno tune in conjunction with its new full three inch exhaust, also being New Zealand we can get away with straight through pipes, no cat or reso's so its loud as.

Edited by Vanilla_Rice

I had a vacum leak, boost leak and exh manifold leak when my car was laggy-er. each problem I fixed, the boost built up faster, making it much better to drive slowly around town. how much vacume are you getting on idle? my rb20 sits on 58cmhg. my car needs a retune soon I think...

Ok, dump pipe type, do you run a cat? Inlet pipe to turbo, air filter type? What ECU and who tuned it? Ignition timing correct? What size wheel are you running? RB20s are not known the for their torque below 3,500rpm but i challenge people to show me why a 250rwkw RB20 cannot go punch for punch with a 250rwkws RB25 at over a fist full of revs.

Dont crack the motor, jst check the basics

i challenge people to show me why a 250rwkw RB20 cannot go punch for punch with a 250rwkws RB25 at over a fist full of revs.

I do remember a day when we went to calder, i do believe the RB25 was faster MPH wise? :P

diff gears

aggressive tuning

and cam gears

what controls your boost?

oh and throw away your ecu ;) imo remapped std ecu for you , raise the rev limiter to 8500 :ermm: possibly throw the turbo away (replace it with a different one)?

to be honest i don't see why everyone jumps to replace the rb20 under 250rwk , you can get 1000rpm more out of it so generally you get the same type of power band... just replace the diff gears if it needs to come on sooner :D

disclaimer: im tired , this post may or may not make any sense and most likely should be ignored :P

Ok, dump pipe type, do you run a cat? Inlet pipe to turbo, air filter type? What ECU and who tuned it? Ignition timing correct? What size wheel are you running?

Dumpy is 3'' right off the turbo, not sure what you mean by 'type' but its not a branded dumpy like trust or something. No cat, its a straight through pipe to rear muffler (can get away with that in nz).

Inlet pipe to turbo is below, and its a K&N pod.

111hp5.jpg

Now ECU is a Link Ver 5, yes the old type.. is probably an area that lets me down a bit although I think this is more evident higher in the rev range and not so much low down.. Was tuned by TrickyTune in NZ so i doubt your familiar with them but he tunes alot of the D1NZ cars that race over here .. I asked him for an 'agressive' tune and he spent quite a while tuning to get the most out of it, timing was tweaked aswell.. compressor wheel is a 16g.

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
what controls your boost?

oh and throw away your ecu :P imo remapped std ecu for you , raise the rev limiter to 8500 ;) possibly throw the turbo away (replace it with a different one)?

Only thing that controls my boost is the spring inside the wastegate :ermm:

Hearing words like revert back to stock ecu make me wanna pull my hair out, i spent so much getting that link installed all on bad advice.. but I dont really want to get into an ecu discussion so ill stop that there..

As far as throwing the turbo away, the td05 is hardly a lag monster, but considering future power goals etc something like a gt3076 turbo could well be on the cards if i wanna part with heaps of my hard earned cash.

Edited by Vanilla_Rice

his car is a GTS4.

so he already has the shortest gears you can get for a skyline.

but being a gts4, it also means he is carrying GTR weight (my 4 door gts4 was 1450kg), while being powered by the no torque rb20.

you say your boost is controlled by the wastegate spring.

but in the dyno thread you have results from 18 psi and 22 psi..

Perhaps you could build yourself a JAYCAR boost controller.

it has the ability to keep the wastegate completely shut till the desired psi.

that should ramp the boost up quicker.

you are getting 205rwkw using 18 psi... similar power could be had using a stock RB25 turbo (well around 190rwkw with 15psi or something.. someone on here actually made 195rwkw on 14psi.. I think it's in that dyno thread)

I'd say it would make for a shit load faster car than your car currently is.

those too lazy to click his link.. his car details are:

R32 GTS4

rb20det

stock internals

td05h turbo

tial 38mm w/g, plumb back setup

rx7 flowed and tested injectors (550cc)

bosch fuel pump

Link ver5 ecu

600x300 hybrid style intercooler

k&n filter / custom stainless intake pipe

3'' full exhaust

turbo-smart ssq bov (type 2 vee port)

Running an Older Link is the problem here, cant keep up at the end and started to detonate, this was the highest run during tuning 221wkw @ 22psi.. Car is currently running 18psi @ 205wkw

Do you happen to know the A/R or the size housing the TD05 s running? It could be a little large as it is making decent enough power and running decent amounts of boost so perhaps it is the physics of the exhaust houing that is makign it so laggy. You dont happen to have pictures of the turbo before it went on? Is it an internal gate rear housing that you have decided to run with an external gate?

how much vacume are you getting on idle? my rb20 sits on 58cmhg. my car needs a retune soon I think...

I started it up before, and after about a min or so in idle the gauge was reading 16 In. Hg thats the unit my gauge measures in not cmhg like you said but dont know how to convert it..

Do you happen to know the A/R or the size housing the TD05 s running? It could be a little large as it is making decent enough power and running decent amounts of boost so perhaps it is the physics of the exhaust houing that is makign it so laggy. You dont happen to have pictures of the turbo before it went on?

Sorry this is the only info i could find on the turbo,

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-149812251.htm

Inducer: 1.89"

Exducer: 2.68"

Compressor wheel: 16G

Turbine Wheel: TD05D

This turbo was just a cheap chinese replacement option as I couldnt afford over a grand to replace with a genuine turbo at the time.. I could take a photo of the turbo installed on the car but will have to take off the inlet hose etc, maybe someone could recognise the writing on it if I do that..

Is it an internal gate rear housing that you have decided to run with an external gate?

If I understood you correctly yes it did have an internal gate that is welded shut and uses the external wastegate instead..

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
you say your boost is controlled by the wastegate spring.

but in the dyno thread you have results from 18 psi and 22 psi..

Yeah thats because we changed the springs around when he was tuning it.

you are getting 205rwkw using 18 psi... similar power could be had using a stock RB25 turbo (well around 190rwkw with 15psi or something.. someone on here actually made 195rwkw on 14psi.. I think it's in that dyno thread)

I'd say it would make for a shit load faster car than your car currently is.

Yeah true but I'd put my money on the cheap chinese turbo + setup issues being the main culprit of such high boost for such little power.. Im quite positive a good td05 would dominate an rb25 turbo in most areas but mainly maximum hp unless of course the rb25 turbo is high flowed or something.

Edited by Vanilla_Rice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...