Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone know where i can get my air conditioning system repaired?

it currently only blows hot air on my feet, and if i want it cold i have to manually move the motor under the dash to get it to cold, but its stuck on feet for good.

giving me the shits.

I need to find sumone to repair it in melbourne, preferably sumone who knows about skylines and has worked on air con b4

thanx

ps: ive taken it to an auto electrician and he wouldnt touch it cause it was a jap import

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25217-r33-gtst-aircon-repairs/
Share on other sites

If it won't move off feet it could be something simple like a missing vacuum line or a control rod slipped off its pivot. Try pulling the middle bits out of the dash and see if you can find anything wrong.

ive just pulled half my dash aprt today, cant see anything wrong.

what i meant about the motor is i manually have to turn it if i want to go from hot to cold, its like the motor aint strong enuf to turn the gate from hot to cold. am i making sense??

gota find sumone to fix it

there is a pipe that fits onto a blank panel on the back of the dash just to the left of the steering wheel. Its like a hose connection that connects to a plug. I had my stereo done and they forgot to put that back on and hot air just blew onto my feet all the time and 18 degrees was cold and 19 degrees was boiling. maybe thats it?

you have to pull the dash out to get at it.

the a/c-heater is fully electric.

the motor you are talking about is the blend door motor.

they often fail but i would look at other stuff first as is sounds like nothing else is working.

in theory if you moved the door by hand the computor would want to move it back.have a look if the rest of the doors work.then go from there.

the system is still very basic.

basic u reckon?

i reckon its so complicated.

slamm, that hose your talkin about was my first though too, but it aint that. i ran the ac diagnostics and i got just about evry error you can. One of the error codes was 26 which is PBR, but i got no idea what pbr is. anyone???

davehoos, what do u mean by the rest of the doors, that motorised door im talking about is the only one i can find.

PBR POTETIO BALAST RESISTER ON MY R31 its at the end of the heater control cable to set the temperature.

i havnt had to repair a R33 inside [only r/r the evaporator for gas leaks.]R31 and R32 have three control motors so i would think that r33 is similar.

but on most of these type the fresh recirc door is motor or vacumm.also the mode or vent controls.face feet.

if recirc door dont work then you have some were to start as it not conected to the temperature settings..

If all fails the system tend to go hot.this might be ok in japanese or european winters.

there is a light sencor ,air cabin temp .outside temp, water temp,

and 2 a/c evaportator temp sencors.have i made your day.

the resistance values are very generic i have replaced thermostat probes with elcheepos.

While we are on the topic of aircon, does anybody know what the knocking sound is when you first turn the car on? Its in the centre of the dash, not in the motor. It lasts about 5 seconds and probably sounds more like an aerial motor that will keep going once the aerial is fully retracted. I got told it was something to do with the air con or fan.

any ideas? or is this normal?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Yes we're a bit optimistic we might get something out of sealing up the two pipes of the external wastegate and reactivating the stock one. I believe the orginal stock wastegate was tack welded shut. It doesn't budge and visually looks closed and sealed. The car has noticeably more lag so it could be at least part of the problem, maybe all. It's definately one of the key changes made since last tune. And it's one that's more difficult to fully understand and measure, not like for instance timing or cylinder compression.  Thanks for that feedback, we'll let you know how this progresses. Fingers crossed.   Regards Rob
    • Transplanting the vvt from a 25neo into an rb26?
    • Well, I was going to say, "Is the wastegate set up so that it is not leaking?" That's actually a different thing to what you're asking about. In theory, if you have allowed the two halves of the manifold to commmunicate (more than the stock manifold does - which is at least a little bit) then the negative effect should be apparent in delayed spool, not in outrigth power. OK, maybe just maybe, a badly set up twin scroll wastegate "crosstalk" might kill the top end, although it's hard to see how. What is happening with the original wastegate in the turbo? is it sealed off properly. If it's left flapping in the breeze, it will f**k everything up. If it is still there, and can be returned to service, I'd be capping off the external (presuming the two halves can and will be isolated from each other after doing so) and have a go with just the stock wastegate. I have an internal wastegate in my highflowed rear housing. The bigger opening and flapper should be fine to >250 rwkW. So there's not exactly a pressing reason to have the external. Done right, an external will give better results. Done wrong, it might just be possible to have worse results. Report back!
    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
×
×
  • Create New...