Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

lol..yea sometimes i do..guess thats why..atm im running 2 amps.. 1 - 800wattx4 and a 225wattx2 on my splits + tweeters and 2 12`subs.. havent got anything hooked up to the 4 ways in the back.. and yeah ive got all the blu neon crap in the car and boot so yeah does drain a bit of power..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25225-boot-install-pics/#findComment-537655
Share on other sites

Originally posted by sHorty

BTW does that box u made work well like the bass sounds good through it

the neons sux shit loads of power from the battery!

The sub i got is a 12" Orion MTX close enclosure sub, and the box was custom made at a car audio place. Works really well and shakes the front windscreen but to much of the boot 2!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25225-boot-install-pics/#findComment-537972
Share on other sites

neons are old school man.. buy CCFL's.. less power drain..

I reckon you can build some pretty awesome stuff if you muck around a bit and have a bit of creativity. Once you have some nice carpet, you can make some templates and go to town. Bit of perspex, some MDF and a jigsaw (or dremel), maybe get some polished metal designs cut to the shape you want, few CCFL's..

Pproblem is the skyline boot is pretty squishy, thats why most comp cars are hondas and crap with big boots. Might stuff around with that in my next car, with the R33, its a bit like meh.. its never going to look awesome.

u can get pretty good results with DIY if you put the time in.. see my box :D it took a few hours, but i saved a fair bit of money and I think it sounds pretty good. You learn a bit I guess, and once you start you kind of think.. hmm, i could do this and this and this next time.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...=&postid=519631

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25225-boot-install-pics/#findComment-537988
Share on other sites

Has anyone done a full custom box to fit in the side parts of the boot, or maybe the spare wheel bay..

It'd be good to save a lot of room and use either of those two spaces. I not build a sub box before, but I imagine custom making something to fit these spaces would be a fairly tedious job..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25225-boot-install-pics/#findComment-538799
Share on other sites

Here's mine.

I was going to make a fibreglass box in the rear wing but ultimately decided on the easier route. I need to make some sort of cover where the fuses are. The sub's not in a box so probably doesn't perform at it's best (still sounds good enough for me).

Of course i'm bolloxed if I ever want to fit a strut brace!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25225-boot-install-pics/#findComment-538815
Share on other sites

That looks heaps nice dude.. but unfortunately i have already used up all that space:

http://hal.ooix.net/images/displayimage.ph...?album=5&pos=30

Amp to go under the a/v box that the cut out shows (mainly for air flow and access purposes - may pretty it up later with tinted viewing window and neon :) I have measured up the area and will fit audison srx3 perfectly.. :)

Will have to put the sub(s) somewhere else obviouslly :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25225-boot-install-pics/#findComment-538826
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Moschops

Here's mine.

I was going to make a fibreglass box in the rear wing but ultimately decided on the easier route. I need to make some sort of cover where the fuses are. The sub's not in a box so probably doesn't perform at it's best (still sounds good enough for me).

Of course i'm bolloxed if I ever want to fit a strut brace!

Ive seen a r33 like that install but with 2 flush mounted amps and sub in same location, looks preety good.

I had a big problem with mine when i had to change a flqt tyre, it involved pulling half of my system out to get to the spare wheel!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25225-boot-install-pics/#findComment-538840
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...