Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Detailing Help Me:)

AlexR34

By AlexR34,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

AlexR34 Proficient

AlexR34

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Looking for some advice for someone with a bit of experience, when i clean my car and do the wax and yada yada it looks super clean, but when the sun hits it or u look at it under a light there are swirl marks and billions of little scratches (all very light) how would I go about removing these, they crap me of grrrrrr. Looking for specific product names and tools you use, and how can i reduce the swirl marks in the future, what is mainly causing these, is it my sponge, my microfiber towel etc etc.

As usual all help is appreciated in advance.

Thx G's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252282-car-detailing-help-me/
Share on other sites
HKS_R34 Proficient

HKS_R34

Posted
Posted

mainly the scratches can come from the sponge you use when washing the car.

I use mostly all autoglym products as they seem to be the best I have used. The autoglym car wash, follwed with the Ultra Deep Shine, then the super resin polish.

Gets all those scratches and swirls right out.

AlexR34 Proficient

AlexR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im thinking of using the "Ultimate System" from mothers has anybody tried this. What it is is a pre wax cleaner from mothers then followed with a sealer and glaze and finally using their pure carnauba wax. Does anyone have anything to say about any of these products.

AlexR34 Proficient

AlexR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah, im actually gonna clay bar the car first to pick up all the crap and get rid of over spray then im going to do the rest, but whats the easiest way to get rid of swirls and micro scratches. I think ill just get the clay bar system and i think its enough, because you get the clay bar, that instant detailer thing, basically used to moisten the clay bar and a wax and that should do it, but i'd like to get rid of all the swirls and gagilions of little scratches u can see under a bright light. Whats the easiest way to get rid of these scratches.

Edited by AlexR34
Beelzebub89 Grand Master

Beelzebub89

Posted
Posted

Go to Final Inspection and check out the forums there. Plenty of detail about techniques, tools and products to use.

What I do on my cars is:

Wash - Random $15 car wash

Dry with Waffle Weave Microfibre Drying towel

Clay - Clay Magic Blue

Wash Again

Dry again

Polish with Menzerna Intensive Polish (I think its called) and a Bosch Random orbital with a Blue Edge Pad. I've also got Menzerna Final Finish and a White Edge pad if the swirls aren't too bad.

Wax with P21s paste wax

Seal with Zaino Z2

This will normally last a good 6 months before it needs doing again ;) Definetly get onto Final Inspection and order some gear from them. All the products they stock are the best :action-smiley-069:

I use all microfibre clothes on my car and a microfibre wash mit for washing the car. 1 for body n 1 for wheels. This helps minimise scratches from washing the car :D

Enjoy and hope you get your car looking smick :D

Tyson 1990 Community Regular

Tyson 1990

Posted
Posted
mainly the scratches can come from the sponge you use when washing the car.

I use mostly all autoglym products as they seem to be the best I have used. The autoglym car wash, follwed with the Ultra Deep Shine, then the super resin polish.

Gets all those scratches and swirls right out.

I think i use Autoglym polish too, its awesome.

AlexR34 Proficient

AlexR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Go to Final Inspection and check out the forums there. Plenty of detail about techniques, tools and products to use.

What I do on my cars is:

Wash - Random $15 car wash

Dry with Waffle Weave Microfibre Drying towel

Clay - Clay Magic Blue

Wash Again

Dry again

Polish with Menzerna Intensive Polish (I think its called) and a Bosch Random orbital with a Blue Edge Pad. I've also got Menzerna Final Finish and a White Edge pad if the swirls aren't too bad.

Wax with P21s paste wax

Seal with Zaino Z2

This will normally last a good 6 months before it needs doing again :( Definetly get onto Final Inspection and order some gear from them. All the products they stock are the best :(

I use all microfibre clothes on my car and a microfibre wash mit for washing the car. 1 for body n 1 for wheels. This helps minimise scratches from washing the car :(

Enjoy and hope you get your car looking smick :D

Yeah ill follow your instructions and ill do all this next week and then ill post pics up of how it looks and what products i used, before you freak out it will be a picture of a 2002 C200 Merc not a skyline i sold that a while ago lol. So yeah next sunday i shall post pics up, the only reason im not gonna get the products that you are recommending is because i can't be stuffed shopping online lol.

O.I.C Napster Collaborator

O.I.C Napster

Posted
Posted

Alex,

I think you'll find the little scratch marks are called spiderwebs. Well thats what we call it. It is caused from either the spounge or cloth you are using to clean the car. IMO your always gonna get them because water will never removed all the dirt before the wash.

When we buff cars, we will clean the car first, leave the car wet and use a cutting compound to cut into the clear coat that will remove those so called marks. The we'll wash the car again, and there is a few different steps we will take to seal the polish and apply the wax.

The wax will fill-in the swirl marks left by hand polishing or machine polishing. You will always get swirl mark no matter how you polish a car. Different products do different jobs.

My advise would be to get a decent cut, to cut into the clear (no to heavy) then apply your final wax/swirl remover to finish.

If your car is a dark colour the marks will stick out like dogs balls but thats just the way it is.

I use a product from 'Autosmart' is not avalible on the retail shelves i dont think but if your up this way drop me a line and ill help u out.

Cheers Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Noice. Mostly.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • GTSBoy
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • marni
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By marni · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • joshuaho96
      My BMW 335i

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
×
×
  • Create New...