Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What do you think I should expect to pay to get an Apexi S-AFC installed and dyno tuned (sydney prices)?

Is it easy/worth installing myself and then taking it to get tuned? If so, if I install it with the stock settings will it affect the car badly (will i still be able to drive to work in other words) until i get it tuned?

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25231-safc-installation-costssuggestions/
Share on other sites

it easy az to install yourself download the manual from apexi.com .Make sure u set the hi/lo maps at 0% and it drive's like stock,no change to the ecu.Most dyno place's charge $100 an hour then $50 every hr after that.Wont take more than 30mins to dyno but $100 is min charge.

thanx BoOsT_JuNkY... I'm still not sure about installing it, I'm not hopeless when it comes to cars but most of my experience is in car stereo installation, not much to do with engines at all (unless they're rotary!). How long do you think it will take to install the s-afc (wiring, soldering, etc) and do you have to run wires to the computer or to somewhere else?

Can anyone recommend a place in sydney to get the s-afc installed? Preferably somewhere that has done an r33 with a s-afc before.

Cheers.

Hey mate, i might be selling an SAFC II soon as im upgrading management.

Im in sydney, if you want it ill install it for you at my place, or show you how if you like - its really easy.

at procar dyno in Cromer it will cost you $80 to have it tuned.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.
    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
×
×
  • Create New...