Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The pump will flow more than enough for whatever any of you need. The gears on the front of the crank pulley and the pump govern the speed of the pump. You'll generally drive the pump at half engine speed but I know Mark has a pretty good idea about where he likes the ratio to be.

Tomek - this is NOT a dry sump pump. It is an external wet sump pump.

All - yes air con is gay.

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  DiRTgarage said:
is this your car or your mums?

real cars have no air-con!

So are you going to answer the question or not?

This is not a full time dedicated track car yet! (working towards it).

I am already stupid enough to run around playing sport in the heat, doesn't mean I have to drive in it too after being in it all day. :)

  2rismo said:
I don't understand what specs you need.

Exactly...Mark has set two of these up....one is on his 7.84 R32 second race car....the other on his 1500hp dyno R34...you wont need to worry about what it flows etc...they will be a bolt up item that all the headwork has been done for you on it already. This set-up has been ran and tested on Australia's most powerful GTR's over the last 3+years.

They will be easy to install with all fittings and instructions and now no need to run an oil drive collar on your crank.

And they work.

easy

Edited by DiRTgarage

dunno how ur gonna use them with a std sump or a non modifed sump, caus they generally need an external pickup welded into the sump. Well u could weld a fitting onto the pickup side of a std pump, but not ideal IMO

also paul, for ease, you may want to try to sell ati balancers with them and their crank snout pulleys or its gonna be a pain to acoomodate everyone with their different balancers.

its possible to retain aricon etc, jsut make up an l-bracket and mount the pump under the alternator

i'll edit this tomororw with some pics after i put the sump on

Glad to see that Mark is finally releasing these to the public :)

For anyone with big power engines, these are an excellent choice in order to avoid the dreaded RB26 Busted/Broken Oil Pump (BOP) syndrome. Yes, even the JUN pumps are prone to the BOP syndrome.

  2rismo said:
Tomek - this is NOT a dry sump pump. It is an external wet sump pump.

oh ... :D should learn to read thread titles properly :(

Still interested thought.. Need to do some reading first thought ..

What happens to the regular off crank pump, im stumped.. works in succession at high revs, obviously.. like I said stumped.. :huh:

Have a look at the pics I posted and you'll see the feed from the new pickup in the sump pan. Here is a pic of a gutted standard pump with block-off.

5chc0y.jpg

****PLEASE NOTE****

This is just how I did it. I am not part of this group buy and I'm just trying to help Paul/Mark/The-Rest-Of-You out with some visuals.

the original pick-up is used and the existing oil pump is internally grub screwed and the 'guts' removed. The fittings are attached to the original pump where the welsh plugs are on it (if you have access to a pump you will see what i mean). We are looking at sourcing some 'busted' oil pumps and already modifing them as part of the group buy for ease of fitting. This will make it a truely bolt on proposition.

Edited by DiRTgarage
  shanef said:
dunno how ur gonna use them with a std sump or a non modifed sump, caus they generally need an external pickup welded into the sump. Well u could weld a fitting onto the pickup side of a std pump, but not ideal IMO

also paul, for ease, you may want to try to sell ati balancers with them and their crank snout pulleys or its gonna be a pain to acoomodate everyone with their different balancers.

its possible to retain aricon etc, jsut make up an l-bracket and mount the pump under the alternator

i'll edit this tomororw with some pics after i put the sump on

Thanks, would be good to see how you did it

Interested at this stage as well.

Whats the biggest advantage i am getting with this set up over the normal oil pump and crank collar set up?

Because it bolts onto a/c bracket, will it fit a 30 block?

Approx time frame? Anything a little more concrete on pricing?

Cheer Chris.

  sxc33 said:
Interested at this stage as well.

Whats the biggest advantage i am getting with this set up over the normal oil pump and crank collar set up?

Because it bolts onto a/c bracket, will it fit a 30 block?

Approx time frame? Anything a little more concrete on pricing?

Cheer Chris.

yes it will be a while until all suppliers get back with exact costings. and final details...maybe 1 week...will fit your RB30.

Will fit an rb30 indeed. This one is on a 26/30 for a gtr.

engine021un9.th.jpgengine022un7.th.jpgengine023rj4.th.jpg

Currently waiting on the crank snout to be machined b4 everything can be finished on it

cranksnoutcj6.th.jpg

Paul, if u want the cad files for the bracket let me know. Alternatively i can get a hole heap lasercut and send them down.

  shanef said:
Will fit an rb30 indeed. This one is on a 26/30 for a gtr.

engine021un9.th.jpgengine022un7.th.jpgengine023rj4.th.jpg

Currently waiting on the crank snout to be machined b4 everything can be finished on it

cranksnoutcj6.th.jpg

Paul, if u want the cad files for the bracket let me know. Alternatively i can get a hole heap lasercut and send them down.

your bracket looks the goods and maybe the go as a lot of people will want to retain a/c. Might go that way or have both brackets available and then people can mount them where it suits them best. Ill be putting mine where the a/c went as i have plenty of room there and would 'even' things out a little in regards to room/space etc.

thanks for your input

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...