Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I was just wondering if anyone here could recommend an IE engineer for getting mods certified.

If anybody has done this or knows an engineer firm that can do it and would recommend them, please let me know.

If anybody has had bad experiences, please PM but dont post here:)

I am planning on getting my car engineered, but in SA it is probably going to cost over 2K just for the cert, and another 3.5K for the emissions test - so it just isnt going to happen in SA.

I have a mild tune, turbo (highmount GT30 so it cant be hidden:)), injectors, cams (waiting to be fitted), z32afm, clutch, sus - the usual stuff.

Any help or ideas would be hugely appreciated

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25242-recommended-engineer/
Share on other sites

So why are you asking for an engineer in NSW? You do know that a NSW cert will not cover you in SA right?

By far the best engineer I've had the pleasure to deal with is a guy by the name of Phil Scott who deals out of Grafton. He visits Sydney on a regular basis and is most helpful (a trait which I found is most lacking among engineers). His number is (02) 6647 7558

Goodluck

Purely for peice of mind, and the fact that I was hoping I might be able to save myself many thousands of dollars (free emissions tests in NSW:))

In SA an aftermarket turbo is not allowed without an engineers cert and full emissions testing.

The emissions tests are conducted by mitsubishi in SA, but all they give you is a pass/fail and dont tell you what the car is failing on and at 3.5k a pop - I think they can shove that where the sun doesnt shine.

Might have to post up on the queensland forum too:D

So if thats right, then in SA you only have to be a member of Institute of Engineers Australia, (IEAust). That doesnt sound right as that means there are thousandes of engineers out there that have no clue about the automotive game but are still members of IE AUst.

Are you sure there isnt a dual requirement for SAE. If thats the cae im sure some of the engineers on this forum are IEAust accredited.

You have to be a Chartered Proffesional Engineer, in the automotive field - I was under the impressions that to be such required membership in the IE Aust.

Are SAE-A members Chartered Professional Engineers too? I didnt think they were or they would be members of IEAust too?

Lol im a member of IE Aust and SAE-A but still going to uni to get the degree. AFAIK your recognised by IE Aust when you get your degree and its basically a club for engineers.

The Chartered Profressional Engineering speicalising in Automotive sounds right though, check up with the department who told you about IE Aust and the like.

Oh, how can you get free emissions testing in NSW if your from another state? Can you get the car engineered in another state yet still have it legal in your state?

ie: if i was to get a mod plate in qld for an intercooler, engine change and wider rims for example, can this be OK in victoria, even though they dont use the same system and just defect everything in sight?

I think that instead of handing out DEFECTS to every car, it would be better if car modifiers PAID for the mod plate to have that modification, hence regard it as legal.

Just a tip, Apparently the EPA in vic allows 1 inlet mod. Whether that technically includes exhaust as well im not sure, but if you got a pod filter with no box, or a stock filter arrangement with a large front mount, its regarded as "ok".

I checked with Tpt SA and they told me they dont care what state the reports are done as long as they are by a Chartered Professional Engineer, and that for an upgraded turbo it was necessary to have an IM240 test done, the only places that I am aware of that do it in Aust is Ford, Mitsubishi and RTA in NSW. RTA are free emissions testing, just ring them up and book your car in.

The vehicle still needs to be inspected in SA though.

It is interesting that the engineers in SA recognised by Tpt SA are also recognised by VicRoads and RTA NSW, so it would appear that it isnt just SA that will except mods engineered interstate. Just that they charge exorbitant prices (here).

So can you explain what exactly a Chartered Professional Engineer is? And when are you going to become one so we can all get our mods done (move to SA, you will clean up:D)

AFAIK your recognised by IE Aust when you get your degree and its basically a club for engineers

You can be a memeber of IE Aust, but that doesnt make you a Charted Professional Engineer.

Im a member of IE Aust and SAE also but does little for me except give me newsletters.

Basically upon graduation you have to work in indusrtry for a period of time fulfilling certain professional criteria. Once IEAust believe you have fulfilled certain criteria then you are inducted, much like the PY for accountants, only it takes much longer and the required criteria is much more diverse for engineers.

At my current rate if i choose to apply to become a Chartered Professional Engineer im still a few years away from getting the sort of positions in a company that will allow me to get the expreience to meet all the IEAust criteria. I have already made application to get my current experience level endorsed.

So being a Chartered Professional Engineer is about checks and balances... many ppl graduate uni and still have much to learn in industry. so its a means of assuring a certain knowledge base.

So how this qualification is linked to the RTA, to stop those in the power generation game from engineering your car, i suppose its thru a SAE/RTA recognition scheme

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...