Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, this is a copy of a thread I posted up on the NSW forum, on suggestion of one of their members.

I was just wondering if anyone here could recommend an IE engineer for getting mods certified.

If anybody has done this or knows an engineer firm that can do it and would recommend them, please let me know.

If anybody has had bad experiences, please PM but dont post here

I am planning on getting my car engineered, but in SA it is probably going to cost over 2K just for the cert, and another 3.5K for the emissions test - so it just isnt going to happen in SA.

I have a mild tune, turbo (highmount GT30 so it cant be hidden), injectors, cams (waiting to be fitted), z32afm, clutch, sus - the usual stuff.

Any help or ideas would be hugely appreciated

Cheers

Steve

PS, if anybody could give me an idea of ball park figures for costs too, that would be great:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25247-suggested-engineer/
Share on other sites

How could it cost $2000 for a certificate? They just need to inspect the car and certify that it is safe. My brake upgrade with custom fabrication front/rear, 4 separate spacers on the front, commodore, R32, import and aussie R31 parts passed with a $100 inspection. It was deemed safe, and it works damn well, so its fine.

My gearbox conversion mod plate cost me $80.

All they have to do is inspect the car, i do not understand how it could be $2000 dollars, unless at $50/hr it takes them 40hrs to deem it roadworthy/safe.

$3500 to do an emissions test?

Have you researched this with the proper authorities and are 100% on those figures? Is this just what people have told you? An emissions test does not cost $3500 to do.

i am in qld

Yes I have researched it with Transport SA and a couple of different engineers here. I totally agree with you, it is bloody rediculous price. To give you an idea I was told it would cost $220 for an initial consult, $350 for a list of modified ADRs to be drawn up around $500 for chassis rigitiy testing, then there was brake testing, noise testing, all this had to be done on a track that has to be hired out specifically for that purpose - it just went on - bloody rediculous.

It does cost $3500 for emissions testing in SA (must be an IM 240 test whatever the hell that is), mitsubishi is the only place that can do one (here) - and they dont even tell you where the car is failing just give a pass or fail. There is a case of a guy here who took a car back 3 times to get a pass - I think it is absolutely appalling. They want people to be responsible when modifying a car, but make it so bloody expensive most people wont do it.

If you live in NSW though, the govt provides them for free.

I suppose its a good revenue spinner, as people here usually just stock their car out to get it over, then refit the mods. I am a little past that being a cheap exercise though unfortuneatly or I wouldnt be bothering.

With all the costs involved, I figure that I can have a nice holiday interstate, get my mods engineered, and still be in front:)

So who did your mods for you slip? Would you suggest anyone?

Cheers

Thursday night at west end this old copper lady was rambling on how my mate needed a mod plate cuz he had a shift light and boost guage. I didn't comment cuz i knew they'd rip my car to shreds but it's so annoying how they can talk s4it and we just have to sit and listen. If she had of gotten picky about my guages i probably could of convinced her that my mod plate for the rb20 was for the guages but she left eventually.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...