Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol, well you have the right market. 33 GTST and hyundai sonata's - the worlds ugliest car... I'm sure it'll be a great hit amongst the hard core hyundai tuning community.

mmmm so hot. almost looks like a ferrari or some other kind of supercar...

3504139994_04ed159b78.jpg

Any new pics?

check the flickr page. I did a BT50 on the weekend

lol, well you have the right market. 33 GTST and hyundai sonata's - the worlds ugliest car... I'm sure it'll be a great hit amongst the hard core hyundai tuning community.

mmmm so hot. almost looks like a ferrari or some other kind of supercar...

Haha smarty! it is quite varied the market reponse we are getting. GT-R's to Micras.

the sonata is my mum's car it was a practice run so I get your lights perfect. :P

  • 3 weeks later...

Basically it's a 4 hour process from preping the light to drying time. supply and applicate $199 and includes fog lights if you got em...

applicators are popping up all over the place and may add gst to this... not cheap but poxy headlight protectors can cost up to $100.

won't be for everyone. but it sure is different.

  • 1 month later...

So I finally got hold of those R33 pics I promised.

SKYL1N - yes I can get you a VIC contact

I'm sunny coast, there is a shop on the goldie.

Edit. yeh ppl do tail lights but it is designed for polycarbonate

post-38017-1249472925_thumb.jpg

post-38017-1249472954_thumb.jpg

Edited by R34GT-T

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everything I found online said never use it because it'll dramatically reduce belt lifespan.  No, but I have seen excessive v-belt tension cause the audible bearing noise from excessive radial load in things like alternators. So don't overdo it. Ideally you set it to manufacturer spec using a proper belt tension guage. I tried the "clicker" type gauges but those cheap things are trash. They read way too low even when you're careful.
    • This is kind of where I've ended up for the most part. It's easier for me, easier for shops that don't have to deal with my weird criteria/picky standards, etc.
    • Will do. Suprised if it's not the starter motor considering it's 30 years old. Will get a volt meter though. Battery is close to new.   Cheers for your help, always appreciated.
    • This almost never happens these days. No. Clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Use sandpaper on a dowel if you have to, to get oxidation off the inside of the terminals, particularly on the -ve. Check the earth cable from battery post to chassis ground and engine ground. Make sure the contact surfaces are clean - including the threads on the bolts that anchor them - because that's where a lot of the contact occurs. Wire wheel on a drill is a good thing for this. Make sure the crimps on those cables are all sound. Assuming none of that causes an improvement: Check the battery voltage after it has been resting for a while. If it's at the lower end of the range, put it on charge for a while, then see if it will crank better.
    • I just checked my belt, it wasn't super loose but I could bend it past 90 degrees a small amount so I tightened it up and for the first time ever my car didn't crank first time, had to crank it again lol. Don't know if that was because I tightened the belt or if it's my starter motor going out (been having slow starts for some time). Coulda also been when I was recording I didn't crank the key properly and it didn't save the recording lol.   Is that a thing if you overtighten a belt it struggles to start?
×
×
  • Create New...