Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So what is a good video camera for use in car at track days?

I have spoken to a few places but get different opinions. My last camera shat itself because of the ripple strips on the final left hand corners at Easter Creek where i use to cheat a little and use the ripple strips which were quite harsh.

So have read and been told to stay away from the fully digital type wth hard drives etc???? Vibration kills them it seems...

So, what have people use reliably that wont deprive my semi slick fund. Say $800-1000

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252576-video-cameras-for-motorsport-use/
Share on other sites

I got a Panasonic Digi Camera DMC FX36 which has a HD vid function and with a 16GB high speed card has heaps of memory. It's pocket sized, great quality, you get a free still camera with it! with a Leica lens (no joke in a lot of applications this gives my DSLR a very good run for its money). Biggest limitation is sound, which is important, and I don't think you can hook up an external mike either. Just a thought.

Gday mate....def go with a tape one with a digital output so you can convert straight to a computer.

I'm using a panasonic 3ccd which was around the lower end of what you want to spend and I have never had a problem with it.

There are a few good sd cameras by sony and panasonic now. just look for somthing with 3ccd, cause some of these new hd sd card cameras don't have a 3ccd chip, and i've read that they give jerky vision. The trackvision forums have some good info on cameras.

http://trackvision.net/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=10

we used a go pro in targa. video is alright, sound is not much. i've currently got it pulled apart beside me, i'm going to move/change the mic, and put some wind protection on it. And move the start and stop button so we get every stage this year.

Edited by sav man
we used a go pro in targa. video is alright, sound is not much. i've currently got it pulled apart beside me, i'm going to move/change the mic, and put some wind protection on it. And move the start and stop button so we get every stage this year.

Completely agree, I've used a go pro a couple of time inside the car and sound is shocking. Actually i wouldn't even call it sound.

The version i have is the go-pro Hero, which comes with EXCELLENT mounts. Including, suction, dash, and helmet mounts. (More the reason i got it) Go-Pro say the suction mount is good for 150mph on the outside of the car. It's tiny and comes in a waterproof housing.

At my next Wakefield event I'm gonna test it on the outside to see if the sound is any better, but given wind noise i doubt it.

Mission two will be to fab up some mounts that will allow me to use a better cam on the Go Pro mounting system. But given it will be a much heavier cam i won't be trying on the outside.

Troy, definately go with either a tape based or solid state memory unit, the DVD units such with any vibration. I have a Panasonic NV65 tape camera, that I hook a bullet camera and external mic sourced from Jaycar to, using its AV in port. This lets me run the camera itself in a secure location close to the floor, and then place the bullet cam in a variety of spots.

hi roy

i just bought a new camera and it has been great , records straight to sd card

great sounds and great vision

really easy to use , has remote control and external microphone point which i use.

easy to get out of car and watch on telly or copy straight to computer.

http://www.vsport.com.au/ecommerce/?categoryID=157

this is vision from it recently, and it was setup quickly as i had bought it that day! the quality is quite a bit better again without the downgrading it for you tube.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=lf6opg6Mdt0

cheers russ

hey snowy

the igb card last about 45 minutes i think? ( dont quote me)

i use a 2 gig card , which last and hour or so. but you can also use 4 gig and 8 gig cards too

bet you looking forward to the rally coming up, good luck on it mate!!!

Looks good because it would be east to install. But wouldnt a normal vid camera give you more adjustability for poor lihting, wide screen etc???? Also not very good for non car applications, which if i am spending that sort of money i need to consider versatility

Looks good because it would be east to install. But wouldnt a normal vid camera give you more adjustability for poor lihting, wide screen etc???? Also not very good for non car applications, which if i am spending that sort of money i need to consider versatility

A really good reason (poor lighting etc) and why i probably wouldn't use something like the gopro again. The only thing i was worried about from a normal cam perspective is scruitineering and potentially the difference in requirement from event to event.

Wakefield for example said the go pro was a no no :-) Until they started stocking it themselves. But they did advise a few people i know that they wouldn't allow it due to the suction mount.

Ben and Tim ran a go pro on the outside of the R34 in Targa, pretty sure no-one looked twice at it.

IMO, the only thing the Go Pro is good for is the rubbish bin.... I'm sorry, but I've put it everywhere in and around a car and cannot get a decent result.

I'm giving mine one more shot. I get a decent picture but no sound, so off comes the lense guard for waterproof use and I'll leave the back open to try and get some sound. If it works great if not ebay here it comes.

i tested mine at the drags and sound was fine...

I strapped it to a couple of cars at QR, and accidentally left it on HI instead of LO sound. So that didnt turn out sou I muted it when uploading to the web...

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=g8aiGRO5Ifk

Drags - sound works fine

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=d4_5klHxyhE

QR - RB25 Silvia - No sound

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=1KEtFe0See4

QR - R34 GTR - No Sound

Still is a simle cheapish product, does the job okay. but if you want a profesisonal outcome, you have to buy the real gear... :)

Mick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...