Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

remember that LED's emit a brighter and more direct white light so you may end up getting a bit of a pink glow from your tail lights. I put one in mine that i had lying around and it didnt make much different. That is in a 33 GTST but.

remember that LED's emit a brighter and more direct white light so you may end up getting a bit of a pink glow from your tail lights. I put one in mine that i had lying around and it didnt make much different. That is in a 33 GTST but.

That why I was wondering if I should go red or white but while I was browsing on ebay, a seller said to not use red led if the cover is red..

remember that LED's emit a brighter and more direct white light so you may end up getting a bit of a pink glow from your tail lights. I put one in mine that i had lying around and it didnt make much different. That is in a 33 GTST but.

I was gonna say the exact same thing. Get red or they will turn out pink like the faded VN commodore brake lights you always see

may sound silly but do you think because red leds emit "red" light obviously when it passes through the red cover something happens to the light say it gets filtered maybe?? probably the reason why the seller says not to use red leds in under red tail light covers??

i dunno but ive seen some strange things happen when you pass coloured light through coloured filters.

I know it gets filtered and only lets the red part of the light through etc etc. Just thought it might look a nicer deeper red with red led's but maybe not. Take some photos when you get them in anyway.

And whats this funny thing that happens when coloured light passes through coloured filters?

opps i forgot to say in my post that i used a red multi LED bulb not a white one. I had the LED in one and a normalin in the one next to it and couldnt really tell the difference. The LED one was slightly reder i think.....

But yeah remember a normal globe works much different to an LED. a normal globe will emit a duller light but emits it over a wider area, The LED is concentrated light so if you can get a multi-directional one it would be better. And def get a red one... Ive seen white LED's in some that look pink as said above. Red will do fine, worked in my old VL just wasnt that visible in the daylight, is much better in the skyline tail lights

And whats this funny thing that happens when coloured light passes through coloured filters?

like when a green led is covered by a red film it comes up whitey grey instead of green. i tried to make my clock red to match my interior lights but meh...still looks better than green.

is it just me or are there some LED haters on this thread.

Its not like fitting 20" chromies which decrease performance and look ghey, leds are actually brighter and use less electrical energy which is why they are used in new cars.

I admit its up to the individual and is alot of coin for a largely aesthetic mod.

I like them cause they match the ADR LED high stop light mounted in the rear window.

Also i find silver or clear tail light surrounds -like on the new WRX look shit so dont get clear.

You want Red, but in my opinion of all the brake light LEDs I've tested, I'm yet to find a drop in solution that is brighter than the original bulb.....that's my I don't sell them.

The only thing I have found that are any good are some 3W T20 indicator lamps that are actually bright in daylight and do the job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...