Hks Cams, Cam Gears, Valve Springs And Dyno Tune On R34 N/a

[neo1990]

What would be the aprox power gain with HKS cams, cam gears, valve springs and dyno tune on r34 N/A.

thanks

[Silhouette-R]

Is this being added to a completely stock car/motor or are there previous mods??

15rwkw gain tops if you had a tunable ECU on a completely stock setup.

[N-DAWG]

The key to N/A performance is alleviating restrictions and getting things flowing optimally.

You would want to look at high flowing extractors/cat/catback exhaust and a good flowing cold air intake to get the air in and out of the engine quickly, as a minimum really to see benefit in the cams.

[Silhouette-R]

I would say cams are one of the last things you would throw at an N/a motor.

As N-Dawg said you should concentrate on a decent exhaust setup it'll probably cost about the same amount

[N-DAWG]

Absolutely! You would probably want to look at upgrading to a larger throttle body as well.

Afterall, if you've increased the flow with exhaust and bigger cams, then increasing the size of the throttle body will allow more air into the plenum.

Remember Air + Fuel + Combustion = Power. With a turbo it's easy to force air in, but the only way you're going to get more into the N/A motor is to make every part breathe better.

[neo1990]

well i already have a 2 1/4 straight exhaust with a high flow cat and stainless steal 4" tip. did not notice any gains. CAI is my next step thn i was thinking cams but if you are saying i should get the whole intake done first would aftermarket cams be the next ste or is there something better.

thanks

[N-DAWG]

Sounds like you have a fair amount of research still to do.

2 1/2" would have been a better size to go for for the exhaust. If you're going to do cams etc.. then sorry to say but 2 1/4" is going to be restrictive as 2.75" or even 3" would make better use of the cams since you're going to be able to flow a lot more air efficiently through the exhaust system.

Generally you would want to start with an exhaust that's going to be substantial for your planned modifications, work up to extractors and high flow cat, the intake is probably the easiest part to do yourself, then later do the big things like bigger cams and cam gears, port polishing the head, and of course it reallly adds up quick if you want power out of an N/A.

I suggest a good read of the following:

How to get more power from an N/A

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html

N/A power results thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Na...-E-t138169.html

Also do a forum search on the N/A section for exhaust, get a good understanding of the exhaust characteristics on an N/A Skyline.

Once you have a good understanding of all that, you'll be able to put the puzzle pieces together and see how everything will work out.

After that ask questions and you'll find there's plenty of knowledgable people here that will guide you and answer your queries, but it really helps to understand the N/A Skyline first, otherwise you'll just be doing little mods here and there that may not go together as well as they could/should, and ultimately probably cost more money.

Hope that helps...

Edited January 16, 2009 by N-DAWG

[Char]

dont go cams, your talkin about getting lifters, valve springs, porbably do timing belt while your there etc so u must be talkin cams with some decent lift = $$ for the amount of $ u spent buying all the gear for cams and cam gear etc you still have to install, then tune.

u could have turbocharged your n/a

Edited January 16, 2009 by Char

[N-DAWG]

Yes definitely gotta factor in an ECU upgrade/piggy back on an R34, expensive exercise there. Allow $950+ Dyno Tuning (approx $400-600). I speak from experience right now as I've had a GReddy eManage fitted as part of my turbo upgrade. The R34 ECU can relearn simple things like exhaust upgrades or air filter...but throw cams into the mix and yeah tuning is going to be needed. Pretty sure you won't see the limits of the factory fuel pump and injectors though..someone confirm? btw..did you reset your ECU after the exhaust upgrade? If not, disconnect negative battery terminal, foot on the brake for 15-20 seconds, reconnect, start car, and let it relearn your driving style and adjust to the new exhaust. Don't forget to switch off the battery backup siren if you have one.

The N/A Turbo is a great cost-effective option, isn't always the cheapest option though, at least if you want to use aftermarket front/dump pipes and front mount intercoolers and high flow pod filters...and you will definitely want to upgrade that exhaust piping again to something like 3". Also speaking from experience, things easily starting costing more here and there very quickly

The bang per buck though on a N/A Turbo is considerably better when compared to keeping it N/A going for the big cams n all. Both options require a new ECU or Piggy Back ECU (fitting of a piggy back aint cheap, and the cost of a replacement unit like a PowerFC is expensive), and tuning which is expensive. Also note that if you have an auto box then a piggyback setup is pretty much the only way to go.

Add up the cost of the parts for the cams/cam gears and lifters etc.. compare it to buying a mix of aftermarket/factory parts for a turbo. Then work out your labour bill, yes the turbo conversion is an expensive labour exercise, but you can't tell me that doing work on the engine internals isn't! You'll probably want to change your head gasket too if you want to seek higher compression and a stronger gasket.

Can you see where things are heading cost wise?

Don't forget you'll still be using N/A model brakes which I highly recommend upgrading if you're seeking bigger power like that of a turbo, and then suspension and handling and a good set of tyres willset you back a bit too.

Since you've already done the 2 1/4" exhaust, I would either get a high flow panel filter or make a custom box and bracket in a pod filter with a cold air feed, a simple effective way to get more cooler air into the engine. Then spend money on things like suspension.

BUT before doing all that, figure out what you want to do with your car, work out your costs and options if you keep it N/A, do the same if you were to go the N/A turbo route, compare it to selling and buying the turbo car if you want a turbo, and then go from there.

All the options of getting more power out of a N/A Skyline are costly, just cause it's a Skyline doesn't mean it's going to be a powerhouse without some serious modifying.

Edited January 16, 2009 by N-DAWG

[GTS4WD]

Dont bother with springs yet. Spend the money else where as already been said.

[DaGr81]

Spend that cash on suspension and braking forget the engine for a while unless you can afford to turbo it

[neo1990]

Spend that cash on suspension and braking forget the engine for a while unless you can afford to turbo it

I want more power don't want better handling

[Vik]

You need to be able to handle that new power gains.. performing on an ongoing basis you need to be able to control..

What point is there, to have good power, and you cant control or use it to its full capabilities?

MRXTCZ

[DaGr81]

Ok from the sounds of it you want to be happy with 15rwkw so total of 120rwkw now that you've gone 0.1 second faster how about simple suspension mods which give you 0.5 seconds by getting the power to the ground and making sure your tyres have a full contact patch to the road.... Money saved on useless mods is better saved for a conversion, for example the whiteline r33 is quicker around a track with only an exhaust and suspension mods than cars with 200+rwkw so that car is some 50rwkw down on power yet faster because of suspension

[GTS4WD]

Ok from the sounds of it you want to be happy with 15rwkw so total of 120rwkw now that you've gone 0.1 second faster how about simple suspension mods which give you 0.5 seconds by getting the power to the ground and making sure your tyres have a full contact patch to the road.... Money saved on useless mods is better saved for a conversion, for example the whiteline r33 is quicker around a track with only an exhaust and suspension mods than cars with 200+rwkw so that car is some 50rwkw down on power yet faster because of suspension

This is all very true an well.

But some people just want more poke.

I too would suggest suspension mods but if your keen for just power then;

Sort your exhaust out

Advance timing

Adjustable cam gears

piggy back/ecu

then cams

and retune

Dont even bother with new springs.

[DaGr81]

Convert it

It probably ends up costing the same as the above with the added benefit of being able to extract up to 210rwkw more easily

[gabzr34]

This is all very true an well.

But some people just want more poke.

I too would suggest suspension mods but if your keen for just power then;

Sort your exhaust out

Advance timing

Adjustable cam gears

piggy back/ecu

then cams

and retune

Dont even bother with new springs.

do you mean advance cam timing or ignition timing