Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys,

lookin to increase the power of my R33 GTS25.

Its a RB25DE with 2.5 exhaust frm cat back, blitz air filter is all i know of...

interested in upping that a whole lot...

what shd i do? change the bottom end? already have a std R33 turbo and manifold on the books...but bsides that, what can i do to make this car crazier...much crazier..

thanks

:P

bam: SHHHHH ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25306-best-bang-fr-yr-buck-power/
Share on other sites

righto, heres a run down on my research so far, figures are aproximate power gains and bang for your bucks (nz dollars)

extraxtors 5-6rwkw $350

Nos (50hp shot) $1600

cam gear inlet only 2-4rwkw $250

cam kit (run with standard ecu) 10% gain $795

SAFC II 10-12% gain (tuned) 2nd hand $450

hope that is of some help.

Ok, so you are going to go turbo.

Have you thought about buying a GTS25T that has been witten off in a accident, that way you will have all the bits you need and just swap them over to your car. Stronger engine, gearbox, better brakes, suspension and not to mention intercooler.

1 1/2 years ago we looked into turboing ours, we found the cheapest way was to buy a wreck ($3000) and change all the bits over. We didnt do it, and $3500 later I still haven't broken into the 15's for the 1/4, if only we had turboed it.

Just something to think about.

And with your sort of budget you should be able to upgrade the exhaust system, CAI, intercooler, boost controller and a few other bits as well.

ive changed me mind...

im either considering buying a 200sx S15...theyre just absolutely gorgeous...a newer car and just slightly more expensive.

if im gonna spend money on the car, i wanna make sure it has residual value eventually....so maybe a s15 is the way to go...

if not then ill do up the skyline i guess

:P

guys, with 10k or so.

what kinda power shd i expect?

im sure there wd be a few routes to take...ie rb25DET

or rb30 with 25DE hybrid kinda thing.

what would be the best route to take?

and what kinda powers to expect?

what would be the best route to take?

1.) obviously it would be cheaper to sell your car and buy a turbo version

however.

2.)you said you were after some more power you could always buy the 1997 rb26dett and put that thing in :P im not sure how much it would cost to install but running that thing on more boost etc compared to your n/a would feel like heaven :(

with 10k u can just do it, u take a vl turbo bottom end, balance the crank, shot peened rods, all new bearings, GTR head, Custom Plenum, Microtech MTX-12, Forged pistons, Custom Exaust manifold/s, and a pair or single turbo that matches ur budget, This is an awesome setup, even with high flow GTR turbos 350-400 hp at the crank is very achievable, if theres more money bigger turbo's and away u go!

NA-R33...

better to sell the GTS and buy a T or do this baby up?

im kinda attached to it and its in a great condition but i can make more power out of a T with the same money

yr suggestions?

seeing u haf been struggling w the power issues for as long as i prob haf after buying an NA

haha, yeah im atached to mine to, i cant sell it. The Microtech LTX-12 engine management is about 1500 bucks, a turbo gearbox would be in order, though i never budgeted for that as i was gonna drive mine till i broke it with the new engine.

yes there is list as long as my arm of things, basically my mechanic said 10g's would get me there, im not building this engine myself nemore im going a different route but the rb30 with gtr head built right has some serious potential.

10k .. better to sell what u got .. u'll get something like 15k or so .. add in that 10k and u could get a modded one already for 25k. thats the easy option .. plus u get to test the car out to see if u like the power ... thats what i would do if i was in ur position.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My understanding is that UV tends to accelerate the aging process. If the car has been garaged, then you could probably get away with extending beyond 10 years. FWIW, in 2015, I had tyres on my 180B SSS that had a 3-digit code (2 for week, 1 for decade), ending in 0, so could have been more than 30 years old, but still worked fine. I did replaced them very quickly, though, once I discovered what the code meant!
    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
×
×
  • Create New...