Jump to content
SAU Community

Loads Of Gtr Parts


Recommended Posts

Enkie circular 17 inch wheels

They are 17 by 9's all round +22 offset front and rear

One has some paint faded on the face but all the polished parts of the rims is good condition with minimal gutter rash.

Selling as they dont fit over brakes I have.

TIRES NOT INCLUDED BUT AVAILABLE SEPARATE.

Asking $800 for the four

Tein HA adjustable coilovers. Removed from the car due to an upgrade.

Perfect condition no leaks or damage.

Inspections welcome asking $800.

Apexi pod filters with cast alloy adaptors. Filters in good condition with some wear marks at the points where they touch each other. Other wise clean and no damage.

Asking $200.

Cusco upper control arms for R32 GTR. Shorter than factory and give around -3 degrees camber. Not adjustable just shorter. Bushes in good condition arms appear to okay as well.

Asking $200.

Genuine Nissan R32 GTR bonnet. Gunmetal grey in colour, Good condition no damage other then light marks in the paint that would polish out.

Asking $450

R32 GTR boot lid with wing.

Perfect white paint pannel is imaculate all over

Asking $300

Full set of super advan wheels. They are those three spoke red and black wheels. Have a set of Advan A048 tires with another track day or two left in them

17 by 9's +22 all round

One rim has some damage around the face where it was wacked but its still round and does its job.

Asking $450 with the tires.

post-20349-1232265827_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1232265881_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1232265925_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1232266031_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1232266137_thumb.jpg

Everything is located in Sydney and I can send smaller items but larger ones will require you to organise your own freight.

May be negotiable on some things as its no use to me anymore.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know this may be a dumb question, but does the GTR boot lid fit the GTS-4/ GTS-T boot? The guards don't seem to widen until below the boot line, so I gotta ask. My boot is looking rusty (literally) so it may be time to swap it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know this may be a dumb question, but does the GTR boot lid fit the GTS-4/ GTS-T boot? The guards don't seem to widen until below the boot line, so I gotta ask. My boot is looking rusty (literally) so it may be time to swap it out.

R32 GTR and GTS-T boot lids are interchangable as the shape of the boot opening is identical - my son is running a GTR boot lid on his GTS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yes all the height adjusters move perfectly fine. None of them are seized. Same as the dampner adjustors they all in perfect working order

current spring rates are 9 front 8 rear. I do have a few various springs around that I may be able to switch around depending what your after..

Yes Im located in Sydney.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...