Jump to content
SAU Community

Bleed Valves? Which One Do U Use?


Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

rs73 electronics could stuff up more quickly then some mechanical ways...eg heat from enigine, u know how electronics are sometimes unpredicatble and can fail etc etc...do u have a boost gauge or anything..i know some people set thiers up on a dyno and let it be...but its not always the best way to make sure everything is running good..

I have no money (cash strap) to justify spending like $200 at that time. And as the bleed valve has been dynoed 3 times and did not spike, I was led to believe that it would never spiked.

Now it has spiked, the law of physic has defeat the valve, and detonates my engine :)

I've learn the hard way. Do not let the same thing that happens to me, happens to you too. So please don't judge me now, I've got enough headache with the problem and $$$ to try to fix this by:

- replacing the bleed valve with EBC

- getting my engine checked out thoroughly

- getting a more reliable boost gauge

At least i'm lucky the car is still running and turbo is still boosting (set to std boost 7psi now)...

yeah, no use whinging now...

Just get it replaced... my target is i wanna see a CONSISTENT 160rwkw minimum out of my car before the end of 2003.

If that target is fulfilled, next year I will aim for 180rwkw, then 200rwkw before end of 2004.

I have the GFB Atomic. Its pretty good; very little spiking. I recommend it. However boost tapers off about 1 psi up at the top end (past 6krm). But i think thats a charateristic of most bleeders and only a EBC can fix.. Btw Im running the stock cooler so that could be the problem...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...