Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I ended up changing a friends clutch in an r32 gtst over last thursday and friday arvo. Now the job in itself is straight forward except for 1 or 2 bastard bolts, but going to the effort of doing it on the floor in a car port to save a few hundreds bucks may not be worth it. The box weighs a friggin tonn. All i can say is if you have to take your r32 box out think twice because you could have yourself some very sore arms the next morning and you will have done a hell of alot of swearing while doing it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25348-replaced-r32-clutch/
Share on other sites

if u think the gtst box is hard and heavy try doing one on the r33 gtr then u'll swear a bit more . on the gtr to get to the top belhousing bolts u have to lower the engine box assembly first .the box is much longer than gtst and it weighs 90 kg but u can still do it on the floor with a trolley jack .

ive still got 2 bolts missing from the top of my g/box with no ill effects and its been like this for 4 months now of constant driving

i will need to get these put back in tho at a later date :)

btw is it the daiken excedy organic clutch? if so this clutch is great - ive found no problems with it at all and its great for everyday

kamikazer33 the top g/box bolts on the r33 gtst are doable even without droping the box . its only the gtr that u cant do unless u drop the box a bit . anyway i would do them as soon as possible u may snap other bolts as u have more load on them .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting. My tuner said after the tune that my fuel economy would be better but it is the exact same from what I could tell even though my car was running rich before lol. How much do km do you reckon you get on a full tank of petrol on your commute?
    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
×
×
  • Create New...