Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there peeps, Had my 32 for around 2 months now and noticed the HICAS light comes on after around 10 mins of driving, car still drives fine tho ive noticed the oil pressure guage hardly reads sometimes but checked and changed oil+filter and its fine, power steering fluid is fine but in the boot ive noticed a box up underneath the rear parcel shelf with wires coming out going nowhere lol i guess the system is now not working as this was the HICAS ECU?

speedo jumps around a bit on hard acceleration sometimes around 90kmh - 100kmh im guessing it needs to be replaced soon

anyone else have this issue?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253530-hicas-light/
Share on other sites

If your power steering fluid is ok it could be your speedo.

Does your steering go heavy when the light comes on?

The HICAS feeds off what speed you are doing - if it gets a dodgy reading it doesnt work, odds on its just the speedo / cable that needs looking at.

I dont think the HICAS ever had an ECU in the boot... correct me if I'm wrong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253530-hicas-light/#findComment-4382993
Share on other sites

Most likely you'll need new speedometer cable, HICAS also read speed sensor (it activates at speed above 80km/h). Replace that first and see what happens.

Do you have aftermarket steering wheel (may affect the system if it isn't positioned correctly)?

There is HICAS computer in the boot of R32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253530-hicas-light/#findComment-4383146
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

If the light comes on after ~10 mins of driving, then the hicas module is still wired in and working.. sortof (with faults).

I would guess that the module that is there but disconnected would be in the centre of the parcelshelf and is almost round? That would be the amplifier for the stock stereo. Good thing it was disconnected cos it is crap.

In the tutorial section there is a write up on how to do a hicas diagnostic, work out how to do that and you should be set, unless it is one of the inputs you need for it to work..

Usually 10 min fault is something like steering wheel sensor. A steering wheel boss that doesn't have the particulars to work with the steering angle sensor will give this fault, as will the steering wheel being out by a bit. Car thinks that you are constantly turning for 10 mins and throws up its hands..

..as well as checking power steering fluid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253530-hicas-light/#findComment-4600169
Share on other sites

This problem is driving me insane, especially since i have a track day tomorrow.

Where to start..

I removed the hicas a few years ago, no problems there kept the ecu in the boot, even the abs one to be sure.

Recently i have gutted, stripped the weight and here it comes, cut out alot of wiring..

Now i didnt touch anything that i thought would be related to the hicas but alas as soon as i hit about 50-60k's my steering goes into limp mode :P

I tried disconnecting the smaller plug on the back of the hicas ecu and that makes no difference, if i unplug the bigger one on the right the power steering is heavy as soon as i start it.

I have spent hours reading most of the threads going back to 02 and everyone seems to have a different fix and thats fair enough because there is alot of things that can go wrong with hicas.

Today i fitted the hicas globe back and tried to get it into diagnositc mode, either im hopeless at it or perhaps due to a lack of sensors its not reading that im trying to get it into that mode.

Checked all connectors in the engine bay seems fine, everything plugging into the back of the cluster is fine

Even wired the rear abs sensor back in with no luck

Only thing in the back of my mind was a metal ring i tossed behind the new steering wheel i fitted, but i dont think that is part of the steering sensor at all, its wasnt under the 19mm nut that holds your steering wheel on.

Im now reading wiring diagrams from meggalas site but they arent the best quality

Im now thinking about fitting a non hicas rack and maybe a r33 power steering pump but there is not alot of info out there...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253530-hicas-light/#findComment-4601402
Share on other sites

^^^ - probably your power steering fluid is low (assuming you drive 32)

Gts30t, it's quite a problem you have there!

Have you checked the speedometer cable by any chance? (i know it's bit late).

It's only thing i can think of right now (I don't have R32 w/shop manual, it you have it could help you).

Let us know how you go.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253530-hicas-light/#findComment-4606621
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Ok took me a few minutes to find this but i really wanted to post back now that i have a soultion, i dont think guys do it enough.

The problem with my car was the hicas was going into lim mode after a minute or two when i woudl drive it

Heller44 sent me some wiring diagrams and diagnostic that was invaluable. I used this and decided to first check if the speed signal was getting to the hicas computer in the boot, sure enough it had no signal. The snap on wavelenght tool i had was very useful for monitoring this, as i just did it all with the rear wheels jacked up.

I then used the same tool and checked if there was a speed signal leaving the ecu, sure enogh there was. I then opened up the loom in the rhs front kick panel and ran a new wire from the engine ecu under the dash to the speed wire in the rhs front kick panel that runs down to the hicas ecu.

Problem solved, hope this helps someone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253530-hicas-light/#findComment-4744774
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
Ok took me a few minutes to find this but i really wanted to post back now that i have a soultion, i dont think guys do it enough.

The problem with my car was the hicas was going into lim mode after a minute or two when i woudl drive it

Heller44 sent me some wiring diagrams and diagnostic that was invaluable. I used this and decided to first check if the speed signal was getting to the hicas computer in the boot, sure enough it had no signal. The snap on wavelenght tool i had was very useful for monitoring this, as i just did it all with the rear wheels jacked up.

I then used the same tool and checked if there was a speed signal leaving the ecu, sure enogh there was. I then opened up the loom in the rhs front kick panel and ran a new wire from the engine ecu under the dash to the speed wire in the rhs front kick panel that runs down to the hicas ecu.

Problem solved, hope this helps someone

I have a Hicas problem... not the same as this... but i just wanted to say i think its good that people post their fixes to problems, most people dont. But this kind of thing helps the rest of us out :(

Good work :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253530-hicas-light/#findComment-5213284
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...