Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i bought a few GTR boxes (push) and some sr boxes, thanks to the importers they gave me a heap od forks and carriers that "should fit" haha, its ok as they were cheap. Anyway, does anyone have heights of the GTR carriers so i can identify the right one, or can i use anyone with the correct height bearing? I'm converting my GTR from an extreme twin plate pull clutch to a push gearbox with a nice sprung center Blitz clutch, does anyone know the dimensions of the bearing i am meant to use with this?

Thank you

cool. well 99.9% of multi plate clutches all use the 12-14mm carrier. mesured from the base of where the bearing sits on it to the surface the fork rubs on :)

no idea what car they come from..

ps.. you must use the small "datsun" bearing. (the standard one is wrong for a multiplate., a very common mistake)

they go right up to 25mm or so for the stock clutches.

thank you, i have found on the ORC site a PDF with all the nissan numbers with there respective measurements! Also i went to a reputable clutch place here and bought a small throw out bearing as you described its very thin. I just ordered a new push slave cylinder to suit the new g box and ill dummy it up and take some measurements and see where im at, but it looks good to go atm.

Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

yo

just having a read threw here.

about to put my 30det and 25t box together with a nismo twin plate clutch.

measured up my throw out bearing carrier and mine is more like 22mm???

and im unsure if its the factory throw out bearing.

it came with the clutch kit that was brought brand new from a private seller..

how do you go about getting the smaller throw out bearing carrier and such

cheers tom

well it all depends, what i did was use a 16mm carrier with a 16 mm bearing (small usually like 22ish) then it was a little bit too small, so i spaced the pivot ball out 2mm. You can change pivot ball spacing, bearing and carrier.

goto nengun, they have the ORC bearings and a link to the ORC web site, on the last or 2nd to last page of the catalogue it has all nissan part numbers for the carriers. I just ordered a brand new nissan 14mm carrier and dont need it so if u want it i will sell to u for what ever it cost me (they week wait special order from japan)

the ball, short is a 14mm bar with a ball on it. the lon one is just longer. like 30mm or so. make sure you use locktite on the ball as it will leak oil if you dont.

of and the bearing is heaps smaller in diameter ie: the rubbing surfave is just bigger than the sleeve its pressed onto. where the stock one is alot bigger.

nismo use the small one.. youd be supprised how many people sell there twin plates because its to hard to drive....all because they have wrong bearing. nismo also needs a 16mm~ carrier. i used a 12mm one with my g-max3.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo
    • Saturday 8th February 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Thursday 6th February 8pm. Supp Regs: TBC Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email [email protected] To compete in this event you will require A valid AASA General speed licence Or (Day license is $35.00 via the AASA Website) MA licenses no longer accepted A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccomended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs Above. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Entry Link >> https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250208 Entry List: 1. Martin Sullivan 2.  3.  4.  5.  6.  7.  8.  9. 10.  11. 12.   13. 14 15.  16.  17.  18.  19. 20.  21.  22.  23.  24.  25. 26.    Reserve list 1.  2.
    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
×
×
  • Create New...